Nuuk

Nuuk's historic old town

Nuuk's historic old town

I began my journey in Nuuk, Greenland’s capital and––with 17,000 residents––by far its biggest city. My first impression was that it was warm––warmer, anyway, than I had feared––and after locating my bag (there were only about twenty of us on the twin-propeller plane from Reykjavik) I hiked down the hill from the airport to a rocky patch of grass along the Labrador Sea, where wild camping seemed possible. With a traditional turf hut  built into the hillside on one side of my tent and a view of the craggy Sermitisiaq mountain across the water on the other, it all seemed pretty idyllic. But I learned the hard way that weather changes quickly in Greenland––so much so that long underwear, fleece, a wool hat and gloves aren’t always going to cut it inside a sleeping bag. The next morning I packed up quickly and found a warm bed inside the Godthåbshallen––a cavernous youth sports complex overlooking a graffiti-covered skate park. The “hostel” is really a bunk room that accommodates visiting sports teams. Thankfully, no matches were scheduled during my visit.

View from the Godthåbshallen

View from the Godthåbshallen

Nuuk was founded in 1728 by a Danish missionary whose effigy looms large over the picturesque old quarter of the town. It only really boomed in the 1950s, when Denmark made an effort to modernize the country by erecting enormous concrete housing blocks, which are now in a pretty sorry state. The contrast between the quaint historical center––where it’s still possible to see families walking on Sunday in traditional embroidered sweaters, white kamik boots, and sealskin pants––and the looming, paint-peeled housing projects is pretty stark. It’s a tension that’s apparent all over town, from the austere cemetery with naked white crosses that sits next to a fast food restaurant, to the apartment buildings where reindeer antlers hang beside TV antennas.

Old and new in Nuuk

Old and new in Nuuk

For me, the twin highlights of Nuuk were the Katuaq Cultural Center and the National Museum. The former––a sleek, modern building that curves along the street like a wood and glass wave––accessibly blends modern Danish design with a more traditional Greenlandic aesthetic. The successful commingling transcends the architecture, too––the coffeeshop is a warm and welcoming place to read Politiken or gather large families for lunch. In a town where national/colonial tensions are sometimes palpable, Katuaq felt–to an outsider, anyway––like a space that defused some of that.

Protest outside Katuaq Cultural Center

Protest outside Katuaq Cultural Center

The other real highlight is the small but bountiful National Museum, which was full of artifacts and displays that are going to be useful for my project (I lingered for hours taking notes). The highlight, featured some time ago on a National Geographic cover, are the Qilakitsoq mummies, a group of eerily well preserved 15th-century Inuit, wrapped in furs. But there are many other fascinating relics, covering everything from Pre-Dorset cultures to 18th-century whaling to the post-1950s period of modernization.

One of the Qllakitsoq mummies

One of the Qllakitsoq mummies

Rumors of a strike down by the docks left me uncertain just where my ferry would leave from, and I spent my last morning racing between harbors. I successfully found the tiny boat, though, and headed north to Maniitsoq.

46 Comments

Johns posted on October 19, 2020 at 9:03 pm

Nice

تعمیر ساید جنرال الکتریک posted on October 20, 2020 at 3:09 am

Thanks for the share.

teleserye posted on October 24, 2020 at 11:50 am

Pinoy Teleserye

fitmag.lo.gs posted on October 26, 2020 at 3:27 am

fantastyc nuw digital marketing

crunchbase posted on October 27, 2020 at 11:59 pm

verry nice… thanks

arshu270 posted on October 29, 2020 at 7:34 am

love this site

tara matka posted on October 29, 2020 at 7:53 am

That’s good to read admin. And our website to enjoy all the Pinoy TV Replay and Kapamilya channel daily show. Any visitor can also ask about his best Pinoy series in our comment box.

racquetball vs squash posted on November 1, 2020 at 7:55 am

Love this site and admin, this si inphormative post.

kahn Gilbert posted on November 1, 2020 at 11:03 am

Nice post. Thank you so much for sharing this

jamsheed khan posted on November 7, 2020 at 12:24 am

wow amazing that is amazing

jamsheeren posted on November 7, 2020 at 12:26 am

I was like to see this site really nice work

وکیل ملکی گروه وکلای سنا posted on November 9, 2020 at 6:16 am

thanks for best content

a-brand posted on November 13, 2020 at 12:03 pm

The article was very useful

Pinoy Tv Show posted on November 19, 2020 at 6:14 am

Watch online PinoyTv Show All Drama Full Episode on my Official Website Please vist my site thanks You.

Pinoy Channel posted on November 21, 2020 at 6:04 am

Watch all your favorite Pinoy TV shows online for free! Our website can provide you with free PinoyTv Full Episode of pinoy tambayan or Lambingan and Pinoy channel tv.

Pinoy Tv posted on November 21, 2020 at 6:05 am

Watch all your favorite Pinoy TV shows online for free! Our website can provide you with free PinoyTv Full Episode of pinoy tambayan or Lambingan and Pinoy channel tv.

pinoy 1 tv posted on November 21, 2020 at 11:27 am

Pinoy Tambayan Replay watching And Download Online Pinoy Tv, Pinoy Channel, Pinoy Tambayan, Pinoy Lambingan, Pinoy Teleserye Replay for All Pinoy Tv Show Replay Best Tv Show Provider Website All Time Free Subscribe And Bookmark Thank You.

pinoyteleserye posted on November 27, 2020 at 2:15 am

Pinoy tv shows are a free supply for all Pinoy box workplace shows. Mainly, Pinoy tv indicates is a platform to broadcast all tv programs in order that people can enjoy all their leisure at the Pinoy channel while offering exceptional and quality sites.

kissanimeru posted on December 17, 2020 at 6:55 am

Watch all your favorite kissanime online for free! Our website can provide you with free gogoanime Full Episode of 9anime or kissanimeru and official kissanime.

El7lwa.com posted on December 21, 2020 at 4:55 am

مجلة الحلوة موقع نسائي يهتم بالمرأة العربية وجمال المرأة احدث صيحات الموضة والازياء والديكور والأثاث والأجهزة المنزلية مجلة الحلوة مجلة عربية تقدم أحدث أنواع المحتوي في جميع المجالات

Pinoy tv posted on December 26, 2020 at 3:13 am

ABS CBN Christmas Special Full HD All Episode

Klara posted on December 26, 2020 at 9:49 am

Thank you.

آهنگ چالش لایکی posted on December 27, 2020 at 5:21 pm

I really enjoyed your site article. You have a beautiful site

zip download posted on January 15, 2021 at 6:53 pm

outstanding article

Crackism posted on January 18, 2021 at 10:12 am

This article is very helpful. Thanks for sharing

Cracktune posted on January 18, 2021 at 1:55 pm

Amazing Content very Helpful. I want many more. Keep it Up Bro.

animedao posted on January 22, 2021 at 12:48 pm

In addition to these subscription services, Retrocrush, Viz Media, and Tubi TV are all free streamers that narrow in on more specific areas and have some excellent anime titles in their libraries that can’t be found anywhere else. These services lack some of the flair and support of the larger competitors, but they’re still a great place to binge on classic anime titles. Retrocrush is an especially useful streaming service that features not just some of the biggest titles from the ‘70s to the ‘90s, but also a handful of modern series with classic sensibilities.

MGWIN88 เว็บหลัก posted on January 25, 2021 at 11:05 pm

Our website present live football streaming directly to your PC, tablet, or cell phones, covering
almost every competition around the world
Besides, we provide sports betting service

NEMT Dispatch Software posted on January 28, 2021 at 12:20 am

Great information, thanks for sharing it with us

Pinoy Teleserye posted on January 30, 2021 at 1:00 pm

such a nice post sir wow good keep it up.

Pinoy Teleserye live posted on January 30, 2021 at 1:00 pm

nice post sir good work I like it..

Fakaza Download posted on February 1, 2021 at 10:29 pm

Very nice and well written content, the Admin is a great writer, keep it up.

laara posted on February 2, 2021 at 10:06 am

Thanks dear…

laara posted on February 2, 2021 at 10:07 am

I like this type of blogger…

Altadefinizione Pro posted on February 4, 2021 at 3:08 am

Very nice and well-written content., thanks for sharing it with us

pinoyteleserye posted on February 4, 2021 at 3:11 am

I like this type of blog. thanks

tinoloaded posted on February 5, 2021 at 2:22 am

Nice update. Keep it up

Nomes para cães posted on February 11, 2021 at 12:59 pm

Amazing blog, very informative and useful. Keep sharing the best content and best regards!

Alex

casinosite777info posted on February 12, 2021 at 10:06 am

Hi, I am so happy after reading this great article Share my expertise with friends and also Wonderful work and coverage! Keep up the great work,

عرب ويب posted on February 26, 2021 at 12:09 am

Tnx vert much

MTV Splitsvilla X3 posted on March 4, 2021 at 12:52 pm

I like this blog, thanks for sharing great article

Bawara Dil posted on March 4, 2021 at 12:53 pm

amazing post, thank you so much.

Rudrakaal posted on March 4, 2021 at 12:54 pm

watch and download Hindi latest serials

درمان کمر درد posted on March 5, 2021 at 4:28 am

darman kamar dadr fori

کردی جدید posted on March 5, 2021 at 4:29 am

music

Joe Clark posted on March 6, 2021 at 12:21 am

Nice work . Thanks for sharing

Post a Comment

Your email address is never shared. Required fields are marked *