Upernavik, End of the Line

I was nervous about Upernavik. It’s extremely far north, though it’s amazing how much more of Greenland lies beyond it. Upernavik is also very small––it’s an island with a circumference of just a few miles––and planes fly in and out only sporadically. I landed on a Saturday, and there was no option to leave before Thursday. I hoped that I would like the place and I did, very much. It’s what I think of, now, when I think of Greenland.

Here are some things I did in Upernavik:

The cold, foggy hill where I pitched my tent

The cold, foggy hill where I pitched my tent

I walked around in a heavy fog, looking for the hotel-restaurant my guidebook promised. I learned that it had shuttered, and that there wasn’t anywhere to eat, sleep, or warm up any longer. I pitched my tent on a very high hill, near a giant satellite dish. I cooked elaborate meals on my camping stove and drank whiskey to keep warm. I wore all of my clothes to bed every night. It was always a relief to rediscover feeling in my fingers and toes in the morning.

I took to pestering the quiet man managing the museum in the director’s absence. After a lot of bothering, he finally let me into the old cooperage to shower and shave. The building had been recently renovated to function as a studio for artists. The last artists to live there were two women from North Carolina. They left their long hair in the shower drain and two inches of cold standing water in the stall. I cleaned the drain and took my shower. It was my first in over a week, and one of the best I’ve ever taken. I went to thank the man afterward, but he’d already closed up for the day. I think he was trying to avoid telling me that I couldn’t sleep there.

spoils of the hunt

Spoils of the hunt

I descended the rickety staircase between my tent and the town about a thousand times, always pausing to admire the sawed-off head and hooves of a musk ox, drying on a rock.

View From N72º48’18.2”

View from N72º48’18.2”

I walked the perimeter of the island twice, once clockwise and once counterclockwise. I saw the remains of an old turf hut, barely visible in the grass. On my first trip, I spent a while trying to find the northernmost spot on the island, thinking it was probably the northernmost place I’d ever get. The next day, I saw an aerial photograph of the island, and realized that I’d missed a small spit of rock that jutted out even farther. So, I repeated the trip a second time, in the rain, to reclaim my victory: N72º48’18.2”

I met a Danish doctor who was staying in Upernavik for a month-long residency. He worked mostly out of the hospital, but sometimes did overnights to the smaller settlements, scattered up and down Baffin Bay. At one settlement, of sixteen homes, they pushed two desks together at the school, and put paper down over top, as a place to see patients. Afterward they gave him two kinds of seal meat: one regular and one that confused him as to whether it was “seal lung” or “seal young.”

Navarana Freuchen's grave

Navarana Freuchen's grave

I found the grave of Peter Freuchen’s wife, Navarana, who died on the fifth Thule expedition. The ground in Upernavik is frozen most of the year, so the graves are raised and covered in rocks. The smell of death is faint but detectable.

A view of the pitch

A view of the pitch

I watched many hours of an annual soccer tournament between Upernavik and the surrounding settlements. I ate aebleskiver and clapped for both sides. The crowds were enthusiastic––lots of shouting and airhorns––but the biggest cheers were reserved for the icebergs in the bay, which would calve loudly, every now and again. Sometimes the ball would fly errantly into the bay, and then all the kids would rush down and throw rocks at it in a vain attempt to coax it in. In general, the games were a lot of fun––I was impressed by the skill and physicality of the teams, particularly after learning that, in many of the settlements, there isn’t anywhere flat enough to practice, and they have to wait until the harbor freezes to get a real workout.

I spent hours hand-copying the wall labels at the museum, which detailed the complex dividing principles involved in traditional hunting.

I finished War and Peace.

The old church (1839)

The old church (1839)

I found the most beautiful building in Greenland, a church built in 1839. Inside, there were chandeliers made from brass salvaged from a 1921 shipwreck. There were countless dead flies on the floor and windowsills. They looked oddly lovely against the gleaming white walls.

I met a lab tech from the hospital who was trying to get a kayak rental business off the ground. It took him months to get permission to build––he complained of rampant nepotism––but he got it, and now he’s struggling to get a structure up before winter. I tried to talk him into taking me out kayaking, but the timing and the weather never worked. He was understandably more intent on shoveling his basement out before the ground froze. I helped him move some rocks, and talked to him while digging. He had a terrifically dry sense of humor, and was at once very cynical about Greenland, but also committed to making a life there. I wrote down some of the things he told me in a little notebook. After getting back, someone showed me an article about Upernavik in Outside magazine, in which he says all of the same things, almost verbatim. I laughed at that. I hope he got his basement finished.

I saw the Kingigtorssuaq runestone. It’s much smaller than I expected. It was found atop a cairn on an island north of Upernavik. It’s been dated to 1250-1350 A.D. and represents the northernmost artifact left behind by the Vikings. How it got there is something of a mystery.

Chartering the boat

Chartering the boat

I found out that the Danish doctor and some nurses from the hospital had chartered a small motorboat to travel to the inland ice, and I talked them into letting me pay-in to come along. We sped through the fjords and I sat in the bow and looked up at the giant, intricately carved icebergs while the doctor and the nurses laughed and chattered in Danish. We stopped off at a settlement, where a small group of smiling kids showed us how they liked to hop between bags of gravel for fun. The town wasn’t much more than a few houses, a school with funny wooden cutouts of seal and narwhal on one of the walls. There was also a hand-painted sign memorializing Michael Jackson. I walked aimlessly around, thinking about how I was farther from home than I’ve ever been before––hours by motorboat to Upernavik, two days and three flights just to get to Nuuk, a few more days before the next available hop to Reykjavik, another night before crossing the Atlantic home…

Far from home. Mostly.

Far from home. Mostly.

… But, in the end that’s what I did. It seemed like everyone in Upernavik knew someone who was either arriving or departing on my flight; they streamed up the hill from town to say teary hellos and teary goodbyes. I was the only one who didn’t know anybody. And then the Danish doctor arrived to see a friend of his off, so I got to wish someone well after all.

That’s a wrap, I guess. Thanks so much for reading.

50 Comments

coke scholarship posted on June 4, 2021 at 1:58 pm

The new way to fetch information on latest scholarship

spadegaming deposit pulsa posted on June 4, 2021 at 3:31 pm

This is the best gun out there for anyone interested in Mil-Sim.

spadegaming posted on June 4, 2021 at 3:34 pm

spadegaming deposit pulsa

telegram spor kanalları posted on June 4, 2021 at 6:21 pm

Your email address is never shared. Required fields are marked *

fire retardant posted on June 5, 2021 at 6:34 am

Gujrat Fluorochemicals Limited is the leading organisation specializing in formation of fluorine-based chemicals which provide flame retardant characteristics to the materials. Avail anti-dripping and flame retardant additives to add more value to your end-products.

Gistgallery posted on June 5, 2021 at 9:26 am

Latest Music Updates

Soundcitybeatz posted on June 5, 2021 at 6:16 pm

Nice one

Myschoolrunz posted on June 5, 2021 at 6:17 pm

Nice one

Download Mp3 posted on June 6, 2021 at 3:59 am

Nice one keep it up

Nanazile posted on June 6, 2021 at 5:06 pm

Nice read. Had a good time and you made me miss aebleskiver. Thinking of where to get it now lol.

Shatta Wale posted on June 6, 2021 at 5:10 pm

I have seen the Kingigtorssuaq runestone too. Great piece.

pinoy hd replay shows posted on June 7, 2021 at 4:05 pm

Watch Pinoy Tv Show;s Online,Live Pinoy Replay Tv,Pinoy Ako,Pinoy Teleseyre,Pinoy Tambyan,Lambingan ABS CBN,Philipines Dramas series Free

GOSTOPSITE33 posted on June 8, 2021 at 2:16 pm

From the tons of comments on your articles, I guess I am not the only one having all the enjoyment here keep up the good work.

GUIDE1903 posted on June 8, 2021 at 2:17 pm

Awesome and interesting article. Great things you’ve always shared with us. Thanks. Just continue composing this kind of post.

TOTOSAFEDB33 posted on June 8, 2021 at 2:18 pm

Appreciating the persistence you put into your blog and detailed information you provide.

GOSTOPSITE33 posted on June 8, 2021 at 2:19 pm

This is by far the best post I’ve seen recently. This article, which has been devoted to your efforts, has helped me to complete my task.

TOTOSITEWEB33 posted on June 8, 2021 at 2:19 pm

It is very lucky to me to visit your website. We hope you continue to publish great posts in the future.

GUIDE1903 posted on June 8, 2021 at 2:19 pm

For instance, you will surely be able to draw out immense form of fun by engaging yourself with finest form of enjoyments by choosing the best Connaught Place escorts.

Android single application mode posted on June 9, 2021 at 2:36 am

Great information. Thanks for sharing

cao đẳng dược posted on June 10, 2021 at 12:59 am

điều đó thật tuyệt vời, rất vui khi được biết nó

ayuwulandari posted on June 10, 2021 at 2:56 am

Beautiful, very education and i

slope unblocked posted on June 10, 2021 at 3:19 am

A really amazing article. I love it so much!.

fire retardant posted on June 11, 2021 at 5:53 am

All kind information visit here wow nice information

incontriamocixxx posted on June 11, 2021 at 10:44 am

I’m really enjoyіnmg the design and layout of your blog.

Nweke Michael posted on June 12, 2021 at 4:33 am

Thanks for the infomation

opoopo posted on June 12, 2021 at 4:34 am

Thanks

Michbase posted on June 12, 2021 at 4:36 am

Okay, thanks

casinosite777.info posted on June 12, 2021 at 9:33 am

Great job for publishing such a beneficial web site

sportstoto.zone posted on June 12, 2021 at 9:48 am

Your blog is really nice. Its sound really good

baccaratsite.biz posted on June 12, 2021 at 9:52 am

Thanks for sharing with us this important Content. I feel strongly about it and really enjoyed learning more about this topic.

chinayadongnet posted on June 13, 2021 at 9:38 pm

Thanks for sharing with us such a mind-blowing post. I am really impressed with the information you have provided. Keep up the good work

japanyadongcom posted on June 13, 2021 at 9:39 pm

Awesome! Its really amazing post, I have got much clear idea on the topic from this post.

koreayadongcom posted on June 13, 2021 at 9:39 pm

I see the greatest contents on your blog and I extremely love reading them.

yahanvideonet posted on June 13, 2021 at 9:40 pm

Excellent Blog! I would like to thank for the efforts you have made in writing this post. rnI am hoping the same best work from you in the future as well.

hd lambingan posted on June 15, 2021 at 2:43 pm

when the TV is without a doubt the best source of entertainment for family and friends.On our site

cracked use posted on June 15, 2021 at 2:45 pm

Nice post . Thanks for share . I’l try to do that

pinoylambingan posted on June 15, 2021 at 3:19 pm

Pinoy Tambayan is known as the best site to visit if you are interested in watching replays of TV shows online.

oncasinosite posted on June 15, 2021 at 11:40 pm

Fantastic beat ! I would like to apprentice while you amend your website,
how could i subscribe for a blog website? The account helped me a acceptable deal.
I had been a little bit acquainted of this your broadcast
provided bright clear idea

casinositewin posted on June 15, 2021 at 11:41 pm

of course like your web site however you have to take
a look at the spelling on several of your posts. A number of them are rife with
spelling problems and I find it very bothersome to inform the truth on the other hand
I’ll certainly come again again.

toto365pro posted on June 15, 2021 at 11:41 pm

Hi there, after reading this remarkable paragraph i am too happy to share my experience here with friends.

seastaar posted on June 16, 2021 at 2:30 am

This blog article is really good, can give me innovation to create a website. Thank you very much.

remedio sparati posted on June 16, 2021 at 3:45 am

sitio web de remedios naturales y recetas de comida saludable.

telegram kitap kanalları posted on June 16, 2021 at 5:14 pm

Hackear Redes Sociales”

kültür sanat blogu posted on June 16, 2021 at 5:14 pm

sitio web de remedios naturales y recetas de comida saludable.

Chatesat posted on June 17, 2021 at 7:57 am

Chate Sat | Reliable freelancers for your business
Chate Sat is the largest and most reliable freelancing platform in Myanmar providing over 27,000 professionals to businesses.

Chatesat posted on June 17, 2021 at 7:58 am

Latest Popular New Trending Switch skin Switch to the dark mode that’s kinder on your eyes at night time. Switch to the light mode that’s kinder on your eyes at day time. Follow us Facebook Twitter instagram Youtube Search Search for: Search Login NSFW Disable the NSFW warnings that refer to content considered inappropriate in the workplace (Not Suitable For Work). Latest Popular New Trending Switch skin Switch to the dark mode that’s kinder on your eyes at night time. Switch to the light mode that’s kinder on your eyes at day time. Login Search Search for: Search Latest stories The state was responsible for my accident – Stonebwoy Gyakie – Whine (Prod. By Yung Demz) Kwaku DMC – Muhammad Ali Oseikrom Sikanii – No Dulling Ft. Strongman & Flowking Stone Oseikrom Sikanii – Them Bad Oseikrom Sikanii – We Outside Previous Next Latest stories 2 Shares Stonebwoy – 1GAD Read More 26 Shares Download Free Netflix MOD App 7.84.1 Read More Top 12 HipHop Songs Released This Year Read More Ghana Music in Ghana Music Gyakie – Whine (Prod. By Yung Demz) by Qwabena Millah June 17, 2021, 5:49 am Read More 0 Points Upvote Downvote More Report Read Later Add to Favourites Trending in Ghana Music Kwaku DMC – Muhammad Ali by kala June 16, 2021, 5:57 pm Read More 0 Points Upvote Downvote More Report Read Later Add to Favourites in Ghana Music Oseikrom Sikanii – No Dulling Ft. Strongman & Flowking Stone by kala June 16, 2021, 5:31 pm Read More 0 Points Upvote Downvote More Report Read Later Add to

Kdrama posted on June 18, 2021 at 11:50 am

You are waiting for best platform of Korean Dramas. Here it is Kdrama

Joy posted on June 18, 2021 at 7:28 pm

Thanks for this wonderful content ….I love everything here

Zee Tamil Today posted on June 18, 2021 at 9:25 pm

Watch all latest Bigg Boss Tamil Season 5 episode videos online in High Defination video quality for free at one website.

Jasa Pembuatan Website posted on June 19, 2021 at 12:15 am

Great content. Thanks for sharing!

Post a Comment

Your email address is never shared. Required fields are marked *