Arctic Circle Trail, Part II

Day 4 to N67º03 x W52º38

Drying out at one of the huts

Drying out at one of the huts

We got rained on only once, but it was a killer––ten hours of downpour, observed restlessly from the tent, before deciding we couldn’t bear to wait it out. We spent a while strategizing how to cook breakfast and break down our camp most dryly and efficiently, but of course we were soaked through upon departure. Fortunately, the hut we hoped to make by evening was upon us by mid-afternoon, but the last hundred yards involved a rushing river crossing that had me going face-first into the water. In the end, the hut made everything better––a Greenlandic family was already hunkered down, the kerosene stove roaring. They kindly cleared space on the clothesline and pretended not to be grossed out while I bandaged the foot I’d sliced up on the sharp rocks from the river. We learned later that the mother was a superstar athlete––an annual competitor in Greenland’s grueling Arctic Circle X-C ski race––and felt a bit sheepish about our drenched and sorry state. We ended up staying all afternoon and evening, reading Tolstoy, drinking whiskey, and eating chocolate.

Day 5 to N66º59 x W52º21

One of the last cairns we'd see on Day 5

One of the last cairns we'd see on Day 5

On this afternoon we missed a cairn and climbed steeply up a hunting trail, surprising a mother duck who did an elaborate pantomime of wounded flight to distract us from her vulnerable ducklings. Realizing our wayfinding mistake, but refusing to go all the way down again only to climb the ridge elsewhere, we decided to plunge ahead with the map as our guide, following a river and then a shoreline with the intention of meeting up with the trail again by evening. It was sort of an unwise improvisation, but it paid off in one of my favorite moments of the hike. Bushwhacking through dwarf willow, swatting helplessly at bugs, I thought I spotted a cairn very high on a ridge. It was too soon to be the trail, but we climbed up to it anyway, discovering that it was much longer and lower than the other piles of rock. Gazing out at an incredible view––the lake spread out towards the horizon, birds diving from the edge of the rocky bluff––I realized that it was a grave. The National Museum in Nuuk had mentioned how, for centuries, the Inuit buried their dead under stones, and always at the mouths of rivers or overlooking large bays. This fit that description exactly, and although I would see a number of such graves in the weeks after, none was as haunting––or with a view as breathtaking––as this one.

Day 7 to N66º55 x W51º31

Paddling on Day 7

Paddling on Day 7

There is one leg of the hike where you can cheat magnificently. There are eight or so canoes on one of the long glacial lakes that the Arctic Circle Trail traces for a good 15 miles. Because everyone for some reason hikes the trail going the other way, the boats tend to pile up at the west end of the lake. We hit this point on Day 7––shoulders and calves screaming, sick of walking, desperate for any other possible mode of transport. Seeing the aluminum canoes shining from atop a ridge was great, but the paddling itself was even better. We stowed our bags between the gunwales an slipped into the glassy water. For part of the afternoon the surface was so still that the reflection of mountains and clouds was eerily exact––it was so impossible to tell up from down that it felt like we were paddling through the sky. We camped on an isolated spit on the far end of the lake and listened to the loons call back and forth all evening.


Belkin range posted on November 25, 2021 at 12:56 am

It is very much possible for you to set up your Belkin extender with no hassle. So if this is your first time setting up the Belkin range and you are looking for the best possible guide to help you complete it smoothly, you are at the right place.

Reset Asus Router posted on November 25, 2021 at 4:07 am

Once you notice that your Asus router is beginning to show signs of technical problems that simple troubleshooting solutions cannot seem to solve. You might need to reset the asus router. So if you are searching for how to reset your Asus router, you can follow the easiest guide here.

Asus Router Login posted on November 25, 2021 at 4:09 am

Logging in to your Asus admin is one of the easiest things to do because of its smart Tech design. You can complete the asus router login without any error. In this post, we will show you how you can quickly login to your Asus admin page with a few steps.

Netgear Orbi Login posted on November 25, 2021 at 4:54 am

I just stumble upon your site. Thank you for sharing informative information.

umzugsunternehmen düsseldorf posted on November 25, 2021 at 5:58 am

I just want to let you know that I just check out your site and I find it very interesting and informative..

teraryum posted on November 25, 2021 at 6:03 am

teraryumlar, fanus icinde minyatur bahcelerdir.

Jos Coiffure posted on November 25, 2021 at 3:33 pm

Jo’s Coiffure, se fera un réel plaisir de vous accueil au sein de son Salon à Baie-Mahault. Que ce soit pour une petite sortie, un mariage ou tout autre évènement, je vous donnerai un look soigné qui s’adapte à votre personnalité et qui vous donne plus d’assurance.

cinemak posted on November 25, 2021 at 5:46 pm

Pretty! This was an extremely wonderful article. posted on November 26, 2021 at 7:01 am

A very good post thanks for sharing! We provide the technical help of Linksys Smart Wi-Fi router, If you have any issues regarding Linksys smart wifi login visit our site.

Seo posted on November 26, 2021 at 4:21 pm

Analisis pengoptimalan mesin telusur (SEO) adalah laporan yang menjelaskan bagaimana pemilik situs web dapat meningkatkan peringkat mereka di mesin telusur populer. Analisis biasanya mengevaluasi konten duplikat, tautan masuk, dan struktur pencari sumber daya (URL) serupa untuk situs web. Laporan ini biasanya dibuat oleh situs web, dan tidak perlu mengunduh program perangkat lunak. Beberapa situs web analisis SEO juga memberi tahu webmaster cara memperbaiki masalah yang ditemukannya. Misalnya, jika situs web menggunakan Flash® dengan cara yang menghalangi perayap mesin telusur, analisis SEO dapat merinci cara mengatasi masalah tersebut.

Vakantiehuis posted on November 27, 2021 at 3:46 am

Great article Lot’s of information to Read…Great Man Keep Posting and update to People..Thanks posted on November 27, 2021 at 3:38 pm

Part 2 is really nice.

Same day courier service in Washington posted on November 27, 2021 at 3:48 pm

Yes its really awesome part

Afyon Su Arıtma Cihazı posted on November 27, 2021 at 6:46 pm

Konya Su Arıtma Cihazı günümüzde bulabileceğiniz en uygun fiyatlı ve en kaliteli su arıtma cihazları arasında yer almaktadır, konya’da su arıtma cihazı fiyatları değişkenlik göstermektedir, özellikle pompalı ve pompasız modeller arasında 25 dolarlık bir fark bulunmaktadır. Güzel su arıtma filtreleri buluna nbu cihazlar insanlar için sağlıklı su üretimi sağlamakta ve çok kaliteli ve stabil bir şekilde çalışmaktadır. Stabil şekilde çalışan su arıtma cihazları insanların sağlığına en güzel katkıyı sunmaktadır, en güzel katkıyı sunan bu sistemler kesinlikle çok iyidir.

강남가라오케 posted on November 28, 2021 at 3:53 pm

In fact, I literally get really anxious that this kind of teaching can for the most part be manipulated in different ways, which is quite significant.

Üsküdar petek temizliği posted on November 28, 2021 at 4:25 pm

üsküdar petek temizliği sorusu için Ekip Tesisat ile başarılı sonuçlar alabilirsiniz. Peteklerinizin kombilerle beraber bütünsel açıdan tam donanımlı şekilde bakımını sağlamaktayız. İstanbul ilçelerinden 7/24 başvuru yaparak acil ev ve iş yeri gibi çözümlerden talepte bulunabilirsiniz.

nbayoungboymerch posted on November 29, 2021 at 1:59 am

I feel extremely cheerful to have seen your post. I found the most beautiful and fascinating one. I am really extremely glad to visit your post

Mens Leather Jackets posted on November 30, 2021 at 2:45 am

Great website you have got here. Keep up the good work and thanks for sharing your blog site it really helps a lot.

借錢 posted on November 30, 2021 at 5:18 am

Incredible article distributed here by you. i’ve for a long while been itching to adapt new things with respect to this subject, and i have unquestionably adapted new things today. posted on November 30, 2021 at 7:25 am

Why visitors still use to read news papers when in this technological world everything is accessible on net?

deep cleaning austin posted on December 1, 2021 at 4:16 am

Maid2US cleaning provides extraordinary house cleaning services in cities like Austin, Jollyville, Round Rock, Hutto, Pflugerville, and more.

Mywifiext Net posted on December 1, 2021 at 1:23 pm

Thanks for sharing such type article. If you are looking for the installation of a Netgear extender or have a difficulty with the login page, you may go to our website and receive solutions to all of your Netgear extender Setup.

CRU SOX posted on December 1, 2021 at 3:24 pm

Thanks for sharing with us.

Harga Alat Marching Band SD posted on December 1, 2021 at 9:41 pm

Great post!
very good
Have a good day, always happy , always success.
And best of luck for the future
Keep spirit

Jasa Pasang Baja Ringan Terdekat posted on December 1, 2021 at 9:44 pm

Thanks for sharing this useful information with us .
I am looking for this from a long time and I really very happy to say That I also deals with this service.

우리계열 posted on December 2, 2021 at 12:28 am

It wasn’t whenever Scott first had encountered a conflict in qualities with his folks. In any case, it was the last time he decided to see or address them.

Folabi Nuel posted on December 2, 2021 at 2:43 am

Rain brings comfort like a soulful music, but sometimes it can beat one mercilessly. Thanks for the Article its lovely

Razeakhar posted on December 2, 2021 at 6:53 am

Amazing knowledge

Cryptospix posted on December 2, 2021 at 11:10 am

Amazing post Glad to read

Elektrikçi posted on December 2, 2021 at 3:07 pm

Elektrikçi · Ataşehir, İstanbul … -Her Türlü Ev ve İş yerlerinin Elektrik Tamir, Bakım Onarım işlemleri

dibapc posted on December 2, 2021 at 4:17 pm

i want this exprince i very like it

databet88 posted on December 2, 2021 at 10:18 pm

You figured that out fast.

click here posted on December 2, 2021 at 11:48 pm

This is a very nice blog and learned more knowledge to read this post thanks for sharing this informative post.

chromeheart posted on December 3, 2021 at 12:29 am

Nice blog and absolutely outstanding. You can do something much better but i still say this perfect.Keep trying for the best.

Fx15 posted on December 3, 2021 at 4:06 am

thanks a lot

คาสิโนออนไลน์ posted on December 4, 2021 at 2:29 am

Nice Post!

娛樂城 posted on December 4, 2021 at 4:07 am

BC Master

優惠活動 首充即享20%回贈


*無需優惠碼 posted on December 4, 2021 at 4:08 am

The Orbi router is one of the most reliable in the market. It functions as a whole home mesh wifi system. To set up your Orbi router, type in into the browser of the computer connected to the Orbi network. Then follow the remaining guide to complete the setup.

The Yoho Hub posted on December 4, 2021 at 4:11 am

新鴻基地產 – YOHO 系列樓盤
YOHO 系列是由新鴻基地產發展的重點項目之一,採用「綜合城市樞紐」概念, 融合住宅、交通、商場、醫療、教育、天橋系統、多項社區及商業設施於一身,完善區內配套,讓YOHO成為自給自足的大型綜合社區城市。


一改往常YOHO樓盤系列的設計,The Yoho Hub的單位間隔較多元化,有1房至4房單位可供選擇,適合有不同預算、家庭規模的人士居住。屋苑更設冷氣行人天橋網絡,可連接YOHO社區各個期數以及元朗西鐵站。

The Yoho Hub坐落發展成熟的YOHO社區內,區內商戶食肆林立,附近更有地鐵站、巴士和小巴總站,生活及交通十分便利,吃喝玩樂樣樣齊。

買村屋 posted on December 4, 2021 at 4:12 am





買村屋 posted on December 4, 2021 at 4:14 am

The slot machines are the easiest game beginners can play in an online casino as they’re quick and easy to get the hang of, and great fun to play. This is because slot machines are purely random: none of your gameplay decisions affect your chances of winning.

What matters though is where you play, which game you choose, and when you should stop. Here’s how you start playing online slot machines if you’re completely new to online casinos in general and slots in particular. Online Slot real money

百家樂破解 posted on December 4, 2021 at 4:22 am

上篇文章,是小編先為新手玩家準備的開胃菜,為大家介紹了線上百家樂玩法~ 而在百家樂中,算牌相信是每位百家樂玩家必備的傍身法寶,現時小編先帶大家溫故知新各項百家樂攻略,再帶領各位玩家一同探索百家樂必勝贏錢秘訣和技巧,讓大家在下注時更加得心應手,如虎添翼,贏得盆滿缽滿!!! posted on December 5, 2021 at 5:46 am

If I publish my articles to my school paper are they copyrighted or do I have any ownership over them?

paket Karimunjawa posted on December 5, 2021 at 8:35 pm

Kami Menyediakan Berbagai Pilihan Paket Wisata Karimunjawa. Pesan Sekarang.

heron preston shop posted on December 6, 2021 at 2:04 am

Official Heron Preston Shop for HERON PRESTON hoodies and shirts. Big Discount. Fast Shipping.

Maple posted on December 6, 2021 at 5:03 am

whoah this weblog is magnificent i love reading your articles.
Keep up the good work! You already know, many individuals are hunting round for this info, you could aid them greatly.

Baby Walker posted on December 6, 2021 at 7:50 am

Extremely overall quite fascinating post. I was searching for this sort of data and delighted in perusing this one. Continue posting. A debt of gratitude is in order for sharing.

Baby Walker posted on December 6, 2021 at 7:56 am

Thanks for nice post and information posts can i created account in this website for my blog

Sub4Sub posted on December 6, 2021 at 11:31 am

very good work in this post and great article

myrouter.local posted on December 7, 2021 at 1:53 am

A very good post thanks for sharing! If you have any issues regarding Linksys smart wifi login visit our site.

Post a Comment

Your email address is never shared. Required fields are marked *