Day 4 to N67º03 x W52º38
Drying out at one of the huts
We got rained on only once, but it was a killer––ten hours of downpour, observed restlessly from the tent, before deciding we couldn’t bear to wait it out. We spent a while strategizing how to cook breakfast and break down our camp most dryly and efficiently, but of course we were soaked through upon departure. Fortunately, the hut we hoped to make by evening was upon us by mid-afternoon, but the last hundred yards involved a rushing river crossing that had me going face-first into the water. In the end, the hut made everything better––a Greenlandic family was already hunkered down, the kerosene stove roaring. They kindly cleared space on the clothesline and pretended not to be grossed out while I bandaged the foot I’d sliced up on the sharp rocks from the river. We learned later that the mother was a superstar athlete––an annual competitor in Greenland’s grueling Arctic Circle X-C ski race––and felt a bit sheepish about our drenched and sorry state. We ended up staying all afternoon and evening, reading Tolstoy, drinking whiskey, and eating chocolate.
Day 5 to N66º59 x W52º21
One of the last cairns we'd see on Day 5
On this afternoon we missed a cairn and climbed steeply up a hunting trail, surprising a mother duck who did an elaborate pantomime of wounded flight to distract us from her vulnerable ducklings. Realizing our wayfinding mistake, but refusing to go all the way down again only to climb the ridge elsewhere, we decided to plunge ahead with the map as our guide, following a river and then a shoreline with the intention of meeting up with the trail again by evening. It was sort of an unwise improvisation, but it paid off in one of my favorite moments of the hike. Bushwhacking through dwarf willow, swatting helplessly at bugs, I thought I spotted a cairn very high on a ridge. It was too soon to be the trail, but we climbed up to it anyway, discovering that it was much longer and lower than the other piles of rock. Gazing out at an incredible view––the lake spread out towards the horizon, birds diving from the edge of the rocky bluff––I realized that it was a grave. The National Museum in Nuuk had mentioned how, for centuries, the Inuit buried their dead under stones, and always at the mouths of rivers or overlooking large bays. This fit that description exactly, and although I would see a number of such graves in the weeks after, none was as haunting––or with a view as breathtaking––as this one.
Day 7 to N66º55 x W51º31
Paddling on Day 7
There is one leg of the hike where you can cheat magnificently. There are eight or so canoes on one of the long glacial lakes that the Arctic Circle Trail traces for a good 15 miles. Because everyone for some reason hikes the trail going the other way, the boats tend to pile up at the west end of the lake. We hit this point on Day 7––shoulders and calves screaming, sick of walking, desperate for any other possible mode of transport. Seeing the aluminum canoes shining from atop a ridge was great, but the paddling itself was even better. We stowed our bags between the gunwales an slipped into the glassy water. For part of the afternoon the surface was so still that the reflection of mountains and clouds was eerily exact––it was so impossible to tell up from down that it felt like we were paddling through the sky. We camped on an isolated spit on the far end of the lake and listened to the loons call back and forth all evening.
50 Comments
heaveninhell posted on May 1, 2023 at 5:47 am
Great one, i approciate this one blog 😉
Turkcell sahibi kim posted on May 1, 2023 at 9:37 am
TURKCELL sahibi kim? mutlaka okumalısınız
sahibi kim posted on May 1, 2023 at 9:38 am
sahibi kimdir dediğiniz firmalar hakkında tüm bilgiler
totositerankcom posted on May 1, 2023 at 10:09 pm
This content is simply exciting and creative.
sportstotokingcom posted on May 1, 2023 at 10:14 pm
Good job.. Awesome blog post, I really appreciate if you continue this in future
betsarangcom posted on May 1, 2023 at 10:16 pm
This is an incredibly wonderful post.
totorank.net posted on May 1, 2023 at 10:18 pm
This post is extremely radiant.
Buy EDU Email posted on May 2, 2023 at 2:49 am
I know your expertise on this. I must say we should have an online discussion on this. Writing only comments will close the discussion straight away! And will restrict the benefits from this information.
Healthiate posted on May 2, 2023 at 3:09 am
Discover how to reduce sexual desire and improve overall well-being through the practice of yoga and other mindful movement exercises with tips on how to stop being horny.
casinositehotcom posted on May 2, 2023 at 6:15 am
I want to thanks for your details on this subject.
badugisitenet posted on May 2, 2023 at 6:16 am
our post is very well written and unique
kalika garg posted on May 2, 2023 at 7:21 am
The layout of your blog as well as your capabilities are amazing. This is just what I’m searching for. We appreciate being patient with the writer.
aliya sen posted on May 2, 2023 at 7:22 am
It’s a privilege to get to meet you. This is an amazing website. It’s a fantastic website. I’m going to save the site to bookmarks. We’re grateful.
arpita roy posted on May 2, 2023 at 7:23 am
The site is highly recommended to my friends as well as family members and anyone who’s read it. It’s an excellent read and I’m looking at reading it with my fellow readers.
shania desai posted on May 2, 2023 at 7:24 am
We appreciate every great Post. If you don’t have the information What do you do to get the right information to write this way?
adita malik posted on May 2, 2023 at 7:25 am
This could be a truly unique area. Your style is distinctive and distinct from others. I’d like to demonstrate your style to you.
American Candy posted on May 3, 2023 at 1:30 am
After reading this article. It contained a lot of useful information, and I also suggested that several of my
friends read.
Nalbantov Microphones posted on May 3, 2023 at 7:26 am
Thanks a lot for being our mentor on this niche. I enjoyed your current article very much and most of all cherished how you really handled the aspect I considered to be controversial. You are always quite kind to readers much like me and let me in my everyday living. Thank you.
Pink bape shirt posted on May 3, 2023 at 7:35 am
The official shop of BAPE Hoodie. A Bathing Ape® clothing store. Get Real BAPE Shark Hoodies, Shirts, BAPESTA Shoes and BAPE Shorts
a>
SPORTSTOTOHOTCOM posted on May 3, 2023 at 8:29 am
Oh great, Impressed with your website.
Jaylato posted on May 3, 2023 at 8:30 am
Nice Post. Thanks a lot
href=”https://yawajobs.com/ “>Click here to Get jobs Updates
href=”https://yawajobs.com/smedan-gov-ng-login-registration-portal/
href=”https://yawajobs.com/www-ndlea-gov-ng-portal/
href=”http://yawajobs.com/ndlea-salary-monthly-allowance/
href=”https://yawajobs.com/nigerian-police-ranks-and-salary-structure/
href=”https://yawajobs.com/how-to-check-my-ppa-on-nysc-portal/
href=”https://japaguru.com/nasims-gov-ng//
SPORTSTOTOHOTCOM posted on May 3, 2023 at 8:30 am
href=”https://www.sportstotohot.com/” =”_blank” title=”토토”>토토
Great job. I will recommend this to my friends.
Vlone Garments posted on May 3, 2023 at 3:49 pm
Vlone Garments is the official store of the Brand and sells a wide variety of original and unique Vlone T-shirts, Hoodies, Jackets, Long sleeves, and other clothing. We keep ourselves updated by working with the designers and makers to launch the latest fashion and vintage products. We believe in our famous slogan “Live Alone and Die Alone”. A brand that was started from Harlem’s street and is now famous all over the country. We have now high-quality and pure collaborative products “Vlone x Pop Smoke“, “Vlone x Playboi Carti“, “Vlone x NBA Youngboy” and “Vlone x The Weeknd“.
Jenny Rothwell posted on May 3, 2023 at 11:03 pm
There is one leg of the hike where you can cheat magnificently. There are eight or so canoes on one of the long glacial lakes that the Arctic
primepuppies posted on May 4, 2023 at 1:49 am
I recently found this website when searching for some intriguing blogs. It is an excellent blog. This blog has increased my knowledge.
pomeranian puppies for sale $250
Bond Cleaning Darwin posted on May 4, 2023 at 5:41 am
We are #1 trusted and professional bond cleaning company in Darwin, NT. 100% Bond Back Guarantee. While our cleaners are professionally trained and complete experts in carrying out the end of lease cleaning, We also experts in carpet cleaning, window cleaning & vacate cleaning in and around Darwin & Suburbs.
pathtodignityorg posted on May 4, 2023 at 4:02 pm
Your article has answered the question I was wondering about! I would like to write a thesis on this subject, but I would like you to give your opinion once
bapehoodie posted on May 5, 2023 at 3:03 am
The official shop of BAPE Hoodie. A Bathing Ape® clothing store. Get Real BAPE Shark Hoodies, Shirts, BAPESTA Shoes and BAPE Short
linksysrange posted on May 5, 2023 at 5:40 am
Thank you for your very good information and feedback from you.
totosafedbcom posted on May 5, 2023 at 7:05 am
Thanks for supplying these details.. awesome piece of writing
powerballsite posted on May 6, 2023 at 2:17 am
“If you want to take a great deal from this article then you have to apply such techniques to your won website.
“
totosafeguide posted on May 6, 2023 at 2:17 am
Wow, that’s what I was searching for, what a information! present here at this website, thanks admin of this website.
totositerank posted on May 6, 2023 at 2:18 am
Hi there, yup this article is genuinely good and I have learned lot of things from it about blogging. thanks.
Brigade Valencia posted on May 6, 2023 at 3:20 am
good article with more information
kerassentials posted on May 6, 2023 at 11:22 am
thanks
วิธีแทงบอลออนไลน์ posted on May 6, 2023 at 1:05 pm
Wonderful article. Fascinating to read. I love to read such an excellent article. Thanks! It has made my task more and extra easy. Keep rocking.
black tulip meaning posted on May 6, 2023 at 8:05 pm
It’s essential to be aware of both local and global news to get a complete understanding of the current events happening around us.
upsers-login posted on May 8, 2023 at 8:50 am
UPSers.com is an online employee portal for United Parcel Service (UPS) employees. It is designed to provide UPS employees with easy access to their employment-related information, including work schedules, payroll, benefits, and other important updates.
Investment Banking posted on May 8, 2023 at 11:38 pm
Great written content.
축구중계 posted on May 9, 2023 at 3:26 am
You are my intake , I have few blogs and often run out from to post : (.
trapstar clothing posted on May 9, 2023 at 4:04 am
Good post. I want to express my gratitude for the fantastic work you perform. I thoroughly read your content, and I must say that it is quite fantastic. It offers a wealth of knowledge and data. I adored the concept so much. Continue to provide this kind of information because I find it to be really helpful.
구글 상위노출 posted on May 9, 2023 at 4:30 am
I truly appreciate this post. I’ve been looking everywhere for this! Thank goodness I found it on Google. You’ve made my day! Thanks again..
Product Rendering posted on May 9, 2023 at 6:03 am
Atellier Studio is a full-service 3D Product animation and rendering company that offers realistic product renderings for marketing, advertising, presentations, and more.
charul ahuja posted on May 9, 2023 at 8:45 am
It’s a panel to serve your all business need and increase your reach to greater heights. User can manage all their Social Media Account with the help of our panel. You can manage your Posts, Interact with Followers and Link your Social network Account etc. SMM Panel Also provides Statistics so that you can monitor your development and access how well your Post/Account/Business is doing.
RIGHT SMM PANEL posted on May 9, 2023 at 8:45 am
It’s a panel to serve your all business need and increase your reach to greater heights. User can manage all their Social Media Account with the help of our panel. You can manage your Posts, Interact with Followers and Link your Social network Account etc. SMM Panel Also provides Statistics so that you can monitor your development and access how well your Post/Account/Business is doing.
Bvdec posted on May 9, 2023 at 1:01 pm
Cam çok kırılgandır ve bu yüzden onunla ilgilenmek zordur. Kurulum, temizlik sırasında ve kazaların bir sonucu olarak çizikler oluşabilir. Ancak camınızda çizikler olduğunu fark ettiğinizde endişelenmenize gerek yok. Bunun nedeni, cam çizik giderme hizmetlerine veya camı değiştirmeye gerek kalmadan evde küçük çiziklerin kolayca çıkarılabilmesidir. Camdaki çizikler için bu ev ilaçlarının uygulanması kolaydır. İşte camdan çiziklerin nasıl çıkarılacağına dair en iyi ipuçları
providentbotanico posted on May 10, 2023 at 1:10 am
Provident Botanico is a ultra-luxury apartment coming in a prime location of Bangalore.
providentbotanico posted on May 10, 2023 at 1:11 am
Provident Botanico Price will be decided keeping the market trends in mind, it will be very much affordable & competitive for home buyers to buy a home in alifestyle project like this.
Vishal posted on May 10, 2023 at 2:15 am
really informative content. Happy with the service.
Stalin posted on May 10, 2023 at 2:16 am
really good blog. very informative