“This is it,” raves the Lonely Planet. “This is why you came to Greenland and spent all that money. Ilulissat is one of those places so spectacular that it just makes everything else pale in comparison.” Well, call me contrarian, but there are a half-dozen towns and settlements I’ll look back on more fondly. Home to a UNESCO world heritage site––the truly awesome Ilulissat Kangerlua (icefjord), choked with towering, glistening, impossibly sized bergs from the most prolific glacier outside of Antarctica–and a smothering tourist industry to match it, Ilulissat is a town where you can drop $100 for two nights of camping and a hiking map; where the Air Greenland-owned “World of Greenland” tourist office sells obscenely expensive excursions and boasts display cases full of artisanal crafts carved from polar bear claws and endangered whale species––with disingenuous signs reminding that these things are illegal to export (as if native Greenlanders are their intended customers).
The ice is gorgeous; the town stinks a little. I’m sincerely glad that there are benches and wooden walkways––not everything should be wild and mosquito-bitten and miles from any town or road. But there is nowhere in Ilulissat to even get impartial information. Every “tourism office” is furiously peddling something, and people seem dizzy if they’re not buying just the right thing. The Lonely Planet is right-–Ilulissat is unmistakably suffused with a sense that “this is it,” but it’s that very quality that makes it frantic, fraught, and a little depressing. I wandered around for days, snapping photos of the ice, using other people’s enormous cameras to snap photos of them in front of the ice, and after a while I realized that part of the problem is that the photos never do it. Every one is so frustrating because it’s impossible to capture the scale or the colors, and every botched attempt makes it necessary to snap two more, to shell out for a helicopter or a boat that will take you even closer to something so massive and indifferent and impossible to comprehend. Finally, I fought the urge and put my camera away.
Here are some things that redeemed Ilulissat for me. Knud Rasmussen was born here (speaking of larger than life) and the old vicarage where he was born now houses a museum. There’s a little curtained-off corner where you can linger and watch his 1933 film Palo’s Wedding, and on the creaky top floor are the original drawings he collected from Polar Inuit during his 5th Thule Expedition––the “Danish Ethnographic Expedition to Arctic America.” These drawings are so marvelous–so modest and small and compositionally elegant. They’re like little pencil-scratched depictions of dogsleds and seal hunters atop an Agnes Martin canvas. I loved them, and how they’re displayed in a creaky old attic. They were a wonderful little escape from town.
On my way out to the airport––a long trudge with a heavy pack––an old man pulled over his pick-up even before I could stick out my thumb. He was headed to the airport to pick up his sister, visiting from Sisimiut. He was bursting with excitement to see her. He had few teeth and spoke almost no English, but we muddled through together. It couldn’t have been more than 3 or 4 km. of driving, but he slowed way down to get his story out. He was a proud Sisimiut booster, raising his fist triumphantly every time he said the word. I asked him why he’d moved away and couldn’t really make straight his answer––his dogs are here and he can’t leave them. Can you take them back? Yes, but no. Do you hunt with them? Used to, but the ice in the bay isn’t what it used to be. Works at the fish processing plant now, but that’s not what it used to be either. Has lived in Ilulissat for twenty years, but it’s not Sisimiut. “Sisimiut!” he said again with a raised fist and a far-off smile. I could tell that he was slowing down to impart this elegaic message––that nothing is any longer what it used to be. But there he was, on the way to the airport to see his sister, bursting with happiness. The two sentiments kept fighting each other to a draw. It was a really nice ride.
50 Comments
Jany Ingram posted on July 2, 2024 at 3:28 am
Thank you for sharing such insightful content! It is very informative and well-written blog.
shimoo posted on July 3, 2024 at 4:03 pm
I always visit new blog everyday and i found your blog.*-”–
shimoo posted on July 3, 2024 at 4:54 pm
مول جليستر بيزنس التجمع الخامس: وجهة متكاملة للأعمال والتجارة من تطوير JD Holding
Iptv provider posted on July 22, 2024 at 12:44 pm
join the best iptv service provider
خردکن همه کاره برسادیس posted on July 22, 2024 at 10:02 pm
A fascinating discussion is definitely worth comment. I think that you should publish more on this issue, it might not be a taboo matter but typically people don’t speak about such issues. To the next! Kind regards.
خردکن مایللوکس posted on July 22, 2024 at 10:02 pm
It?s onerous to find knowledgeable folks on this matter, however you sound like you understand what you?re talking about! Thanks
imagecompressors.com posted on July 23, 2024 at 6:13 am
we should always be updated with current events because it is important for us to know the latest issues“
Peptides Thailand posted on July 24, 2024 at 11:06 am
Awesome! I thank you your input to this matter. It has been insightful. my blog: palm reading guide
آموزش مشارکت در ساخت صفر تا صد posted on July 27, 2024 at 6:06 am
very gooddddddddddd thanks a lot.
godzilla168 posted on July 28, 2024 at 9:39 am
Magnificent site. A lot of helpful information here. I am sending it to some friends ans also sharing in delicious. And of course, thank you in your effort!
New builds Widnes posted on July 30, 2024 at 7:30 am
I am typically to blogging and i actually appreciate your website content continuously. The article has truly peaks my interest. Let me bookmark your internet site and maintain checking for brand spanking new data.
Grocery Store POS posted on August 5, 2024 at 12:30 pm
Hello, you used to write fantastic, but the last few posts have been kinda boring… I miss your super writings. Past several posts are just a little bit out of track! come on!”To be content with what one has is the greatest and truest of riches.” by Cicero.
College Brawl posted on August 6, 2024 at 2:49 am
The thrilling game College Brawl, now considered the best game available, unfolds in the world of a mobile phone.
Bathroom Renovations in Doncaster posted on August 8, 2024 at 10:49 am
I’d ought to talk to you here. Which is not something It’s my job to do! I enjoy reading an article which will get people to believe. Also, appreciate your permitting me to comment!
شات الاردن posted on August 12, 2024 at 4:35 am
يتيح شات الأردن للمستخدمين التواصل الفوري مع الأصدقاء والعائلة والزملاء، سواء كانوا في نفس المدينة أو في جزء آخر من العالم. هذه السرعة والسهولة في التواصل تعزز من الروابط الاجتماعية وتساعد في الحفاظ على العلاقات الشخصية والمهنية.
shimoo posted on August 12, 2024 at 11:47 am
Slitherio Online is a popular online multiplayer game where you control a snake, trying to grow by eating pellets while avoiding other snakes.
Kadyaa Brief posted on August 23, 2024 at 9:17 am
Your content is really great, I love it. I’ll definitely visit it again sometime. Thank you.
Elbadr Realestate posted on August 24, 2024 at 5:58 pm
ذا مديان ريزيدنس القاهرة الجديدة هو واحد من أحدث المشاريع السكنية في قلب التجمع الخامس، ويعد من أهم الوجهات التي تجمع بين الفخامة والراحة في آنٍ واحد. يتميز كمبوند ذا مديان ريزيدنس بموقع استراتيجي قريب من أهم المعالم الحيوية، مما يجعله الاختيار الأمثل للراغبين في السكن في مكان يجمع بين الهدوء والرفاهية. يوفر المشروع مجموعة متنوعة من الوحدات السكنية التي تناسب جميع الأذواق، بالإضافة إلى تصميمات عصرية ومساحات خضراء واسعة توفر بيئة مثالية للحياة العائلية. إن كنت تبحث عن فرصة للاستثمار أو السكن في التجمع الخامس، فإن كمبوند ذا مديان ريزيدنس هو الخيار الأمثل لك. اكتشف مزيد من التفاصيل حول ذا مديان ريزيدنس القاهرة الجديدة واستمتع بالعيش في مجتمع سكني راقٍ ومتكامل.
قیمت شمش فولادی posted on August 26, 2024 at 2:15 am
شمش یکی از محصولات فولادی است که در انواع مختلفی تولید و به بازار عرضه می شود. از پرکاربرد ترین نوع شمش در صنعت فولاد، می توان به شمش فولادی اشاره کرد. اما علاوه بر این، شمش آلیاژی و چدن نیز در صنایع مختلف کاربرد زیادی دارد. شما می توانید قیمت انواع شمش را در صفحات مرتبط با آن مشاهده کنید. شرکت فولاد رامیار صنعت، به لطف همکاری با بزرگترین کارخانه های ذوب و نورد در ایران، به شما کمک می کند تا انواع شمش را با قیمت مناسب، کیفیت بالا و بارگیری سریع خریداری کنید.
مالیات شرکت های تبلیغاتی posted on August 29, 2024 at 2:24 am
Are you looking for strategies to optimize your advertising company’s taxes? We are here to help! With specialized consultations and thorough analysis of your financial documents, we can assist you in benefiting from legal tax advantages and reducing your tax burden. Contact us to create a brighter future for your business!
Bitlife posted on August 29, 2024 at 11:00 pm
Bitlife allows you to explore a wide range of careers, from traditional roles like doctors and lawyers to unconventional paths like entertainers or criminals, broadening your understanding of different professions.
چاپ تقویم رومیزی در مشهد posted on August 31, 2024 at 2:40 am
Are you looking to create an attractive and professional workspace? With our desk calendar printing services at Chapita, showcase your ideas in an organized and visual manner. A variety of models and diverse designs are waiting for your business. High-quality printing and fast delivery will be a smart choice for you.
دانلود فیلترشکن قوی و پرسرعت posted on August 31, 2024 at 12:55 pm
جمع عبايات رأس لدينا في متجر بلاكيش بين البساطة والأناقة، مما يجعلها خيارًا مثاليًا للمرأة التي تفضل الحفاظ على تقاليدها والتمتع بمظهر عصري.
دانلود فیلترشکن قوی posted on August 31, 2024 at 12:55 pm
Bitlife allows you to explore a wide range of careers, from traditional roles like doctors and lawyers to unconventional paths like entertainers or criminals, broadening your understanding of different professions.
دانلود فیلترشکن پرسرعت posted on August 31, 2024 at 12:55 pm
Are you looking for strategies to optimize your advertising company’s taxes? We are here to help! With specialized consultations ss!
رزرو اقامتگاه هتل در جزیره هرمز posted on September 2, 2024 at 9:30 am
es at Chapita, showcase your ideas in an organized and visual manner. A variety of models and diverse designs are waiting for your business. High-quality printing and fast delivery will be a smart choice foes at Chapita, showcase your ideas in an organized and visual manner. A variety of models and diverse designs are waiting for your business. High-quality printing and fast delivery will be a smart choice fo
رزرو هتل جزیره هرمز posted on September 2, 2024 at 9:31 am
es at Chapita, showcase your ideas in an organized and visual manner. A variety of models and diverse designs are waiting for your business. High-quality printing and fast delivery will be a smart choice foes at Chapita, showcase your ideas in an organized and visual manner. A variety of models and diverse designs are waiting for your business. High-quality printing and fast delivery will be a smart choice fo
IPTV For TCL posted on September 3, 2024 at 11:02 pm
No i think there is nothing better than that.
SecureSpend com posted on September 4, 2024 at 1:20 am
I do believe this is an excellent website. I stumbled upon it I may revisit once again since I saved as a favorite it.
moving comp posted on September 4, 2024 at 8:51 pm
This is a wonderful post! is really informative for me. I liked it very much.
amazon4d posted on September 5, 2024 at 4:20 am
Blogging is not a business in itself, it is just a promotional platform amazon4d
Blueprintingusa posted on September 9, 2024 at 8:12 am
Welcome to BluePrintingUSA.com, your go-to provider for innovative custom box packaging solutions. We ensure your products are protected and beautifully presented to stand out in the market.
Funky Headlines posted on September 12, 2024 at 1:36 pm
I really enjoyed your content. The details was particularly impressive. It’s clear that you put a lot of thought and effort into this. Keep up the great work!
لمبات سقف posted on September 13, 2024 at 11:38 am
مع التقدم التكنولوجي، تطورت خيارات الإضاءة بشكل كبير. تعتبر لمبات السقف المتاحة في متجر نقطة الإضاءة من أحدث الابتكارات في عالم الإضاءة. فهي توفر إضاءة متساوية وقابلة للتعديل، مما يمنحك القدرة على التحكم في شدة الإضاءة حسب الحاجة. بالإضافة إلى ذلك، تحتوي العديد من هذه اللمبات على تقنيات توفير الطاقة، مما يجعلها خيارًا صديقًا للبيئة وبأسعار معقولة.
barad posted on September 15, 2024 at 7:27 am
buy lottery from here
ehsaas8171bisp.com posted on September 16, 2024 at 12:22 pm
amazing.hjpokopop
palazkaraj posted on September 18, 2024 at 5:13 am
For anyone looking to elevate their home or office décor, I highly recommend checking out PalazKaraj for innovative and personalized design solutions.”
Office Interior posted on September 18, 2024 at 6:45 am
Office interior services in Dubai are in high demand as businesses strive to create modern, functional, and aesthetically pleasing workspaces that reflect their brand identity. These services typically include comprehensive planning, design, and execution to transform office spaces into efficient environments that promote productivity and employee well-being. From space planning and furniture selection to lighting, ergonomic considerations, and custom decor, office interior companies in Dubai cater to a wide range of needs. With a focus on innovation and luxury, many businesses in Dubai opt for bespoke designs that incorporate cutting-edge technology and sustainability practices to meet global standards while enhancing the overall work atmosphere.
AarpMembership posted on September 23, 2024 at 3:58 am
The ice is gorgeous; the town stinks a little. I’m sincerely glad that there are benches and wooden walkways––not everything should be wild and mosquito-bitten and miles from any town or road. But there is nowhere in Ilulissat to even get impartial information. Every “tourism office” is furiously peddling something, and people seem dizzy if they’re not buying just the right thing.
Elbadr Realestate posted on September 23, 2024 at 3:47 pm
Mention the year together with your key words as on-line end users are ecstatic to have most recent info. This is a great way of finding blog page commenting. Your blog or weblogs will need to appearance appealing, eye-catching plus the title have to be unique to ensure viewers cannot resist looking through it.
خرید بلیط هواپیما ماهان posted on September 29, 2024 at 10:17 am
It was an interesting article
Thank you very much for your good articles
Antonio hunt posted on October 2, 2024 at 5:39 am
Excellent aspects as well as fine points are imparted in this condensed content. Waiting more posts such as this one.
طرح توجیهی posted on October 4, 2024 at 5:10 am
It was an interesting article
تعطير الجو posted on October 5, 2024 at 5:10 pm
اختيار الزيوت العطرية هو جزء جوهري من تجربتك. حدد الروائح التي تفضلها واستمتع بالاسترخاء في بيئة مليئة بالعطورية الطبيعية.
raisin posted on October 6, 2024 at 7:15 am
Very nice article. Thanks for Sharing.
جهاز تعطير الفنادق posted on October 6, 2024 at 12:52 pm
في عالم الضيافة، يعتبر الجو العطر أحد العوامل الرئيسية التي تؤثر على تجربة النزلاء. تقدم مانا أجهزة تعطير متطورة تناسب الفنادق، حيث يمكن استخدامها لضمان راحة العملاء. من خلال توفير أجواء مريحة، تساهم هذه الأجهزة في تحسين انطباع النزلاء وتعزيز رغبتهم في العودة مرة أخرى.
shimoo posted on October 8, 2024 at 7:43 am
fitness equipment is a requirement if you want to build muscles or loose fat,,
maxelfmob posted on October 8, 2024 at 3:17 pm
One day i will visit Greenland and spent some time there just playing max the elf game and i will try enjoy my full time there.
شدات ببجي posted on October 8, 2024 at 6:09 pm
أسعار تنافسية: يقدم جلوفر أسعارًا مناسبة مقارنة بالأسواق الأخرى. يمكنك العثور على عروض خاصة وتخفيضات تجعل من عملية الشراء أكثر جاذبية.
تحميل الكتب posted on October 9, 2024 at 8:51 am
قراءة الكتب بصيغة PDF لها فوائد عديدة، منها المرونة في الوصول إليها في أي وقت ومن أي مكان، حيث يمكن تحميل الكتب على الأجهزة المحمولة وقراءتها في الأماكن العامة أو أثناء التنقل. كما تتيح القراءة الرقمية ميزة التفاعل، حيث يمكن للقراء إضافة ملاحظات والتفاعل مع المحتوى بشكل أكثر فعالية.