Ilulissat ice
“This is it,” raves the Lonely Planet. “This is why you came to Greenland and spent all that money. Ilulissat is one of those places so spectacular that it just makes everything else pale in comparison.” Well, call me contrarian, but there are a half-dozen towns and settlements I’ll look back on more fondly. Home to a UNESCO world heritage site––the truly awesome Ilulissat Kangerlua (icefjord), choked with towering, glistening, impossibly sized bergs from the most prolific glacier outside of Antarctica–and a smothering tourist industry to match it, Ilulissat is a town where you can drop $100 for two nights of camping and a hiking map; where the Air Greenland-owned “World of Greenland” tourist office sells obscenely expensive excursions and boasts display cases full of artisanal crafts carved from polar bear claws and endangered whale species––with disingenuous signs reminding that these things are illegal to export (as if native Greenlanders are their intended customers).
Trying to capture the ice
The ice is gorgeous; the town stinks a little. I’m sincerely glad that there are benches and wooden walkways––not everything should be wild and mosquito-bitten and miles from any town or road. But there is nowhere in Ilulissat to even get impartial information. Every “tourism office” is furiously peddling something, and people seem dizzy if they’re not buying just the right thing. The Lonely Planet is right-–Ilulissat is unmistakably suffused with a sense that “this is it,” but it’s that very quality that makes it frantic, fraught, and a little depressing. I wandered around for days, snapping photos of the ice, using other people’s enormous cameras to snap photos of them in front of the ice, and after a while I realized that part of the problem is that the photos never do it. Every one is so frustrating because it’s impossible to capture the scale or the colors, and every botched attempt makes it necessary to snap two more, to shell out for a helicopter or a boat that will take you even closer to something so massive and indifferent and impossible to comprehend. Finally, I fought the urge and put my camera away.
Rasmussen's birthplace
Here are some things that redeemed Ilulissat for me. Knud Rasmussen was born here (speaking of larger than life) and the old vicarage where he was born now houses a museum. There’s a little curtained-off corner where you can linger and watch his 1933 film Palo’s Wedding, and on the creaky top floor are the original drawings he collected from Polar Inuit during his 5th Thule Expedition––the “Danish Ethnographic Expedition to Arctic America.” These drawings are so marvelous–so modest and small and compositionally elegant. They’re like little pencil-scratched depictions of dogsleds and seal hunters atop an Agnes Martin canvas. I loved them, and how they’re displayed in a creaky old attic. They were a wonderful little escape from town.
One of the Polar Inuit drawings
On my way out to the airport––a long trudge with a heavy pack––an old man pulled over his pick-up even before I could stick out my thumb. He was headed to the airport to pick up his sister, visiting from Sisimiut. He was bursting with excitement to see her. He had few teeth and spoke almost no English, but we muddled through together. It couldn’t have been more than 3 or 4 km. of driving, but he slowed way down to get his story out. He was a proud Sisimiut booster, raising his fist triumphantly every time he said the word. I asked him why he’d moved away and couldn’t really make straight his answer––his dogs are here and he can’t leave them. Can you take them back? Yes, but no. Do you hunt with them? Used to, but the ice in the bay isn’t what it used to be. Works at the fish processing plant now, but that’s not what it used to be either. Has lived in Ilulissat for twenty years, but it’s not Sisimiut. “Sisimiut!” he said again with a raised fist and a far-off smile. I could tell that he was slowing down to impart this elegaic message––that nothing is any longer what it used to be. But there he was, on the way to the airport to see his sister, bursting with happiness. The two sentiments kept fighting each other to a draw. It was a really nice ride.
50 Comments
virx สเปรย์พ่นจมูก posted on November 1, 2021 at 1:55 am
I love reading your web site. Fantastic blog article. Really thank you! very impressive Blog Thanks
دانلود فیلم دوبله فارسی posted on November 5, 2021 at 5:45 pm
Very good blog post. I absolutely love this site. Keep it up!
barber shop vancouver posted on November 15, 2021 at 11:57 pm
Very nice blog post. I definitely love this website. Keep writing!
lemongrass house posted on November 16, 2021 at 2:22 am
Perfectly composed subject matter, thank you for entropy.
Επαγγελματική Φωτογράφιση Ξενοδοχείων posted on November 18, 2021 at 7:38 am
I love reading your web site. Fantastic blog article. Really thank you! very impressive Blog Thanks
Επαγγελματική Φωτογράφιση Βιλών posted on November 18, 2021 at 7:39 am
Very nice blog post. I definitely love this website. Keep writing!
Επαγγελματική Φωτογράφιση Ξενοδοχείων posted on November 18, 2021 at 7:50 am
There are many variations of passages of Lorem Ipsum available, but the majority have suffered alteration in some form, by injected humour, or randomised words which don’t look even slightly believable. If you are going to use a passage of Lorem Ipsum, you need to be sure there isn’t anything embarrassing hidden in the middle of text. All the Lorem Ipsum generators on the Internet tend to repeat predefined chunks as
Mp3 Download posted on November 23, 2021 at 8:46 am
Great work here
Allenn Robertn posted on November 28, 2021 at 3:31 pm
Great information Greenland is indeed a wonderful tourist destination for family and business owners with not too finance required.
Allenn Robertn posted on November 28, 2021 at 3:54 pm
There are many variations of passages of Lorem Ipsum available, but the majority have suffered alteration in some form, by injected humour, or randomised words which don’t look even slightly believable. If you are going to use a passage of Lorem Ipsum, you need to be sure there isn’t anything embarrassing hidden in the middle of text. All the Lorem Ipsum generators on the Internet tend to repeat predefined chunks as
Mp3 Download posted on December 1, 2021 at 10:16 am
Thanks for this.
Baby Walker posted on December 6, 2021 at 7:54 am
I was surfing the Internet for information and came across your blog. I am impressed by the information you have on this blog. It shows how well you understand this subject.
صباغ الكويت posted on December 12, 2021 at 9:41 am
تعتبر الدهانات والفرش والبكرات نفقات واضحة عندما تقوم بطلاء غرفة. يتم استخدام هذه إما أو يمكن التخلص منها إلى حد كبير بسبب انخفاض تكاليفها. يمكن أن تقودك محاولة إبقاء الأسعار منخفضة إلى اختيار فرش أو بكرات ذات جودة أقل ، مما قد يؤثر على المظهر النهائي.
مكتب ترجمة معتمد posted on December 12, 2021 at 9:43 am
بغض النظر عن نوع المستند الذي تريد ترجمته ، من المهم الاستعانة بخدمات مترجم محترف ، لأن الترجمة السيئة تسبب سوء فهم ، مما قد يكلفك أنت أو شركتك غالياً. لهذا السبب ، نقدم ترجمات احترافية وفقًا لاحتياجاتك ، وعلى الرغم من أن أوقات التسليم لدينا قصيرة جدًا ، فإننا لا نضحي أبدًا بالجودة مقابل السرعة. بالنسبة لنا ، الكفاءة أمر بالغ الأهمية. طلب اقتباس دون أي التزام.
Waterleakdetection posted on December 15, 2021 at 6:31 am
Great thank you for sharing the amazing article.
conrad west gallery posted on December 15, 2021 at 2:21 pm
Thanks for sharing with us; I appreciate it.
تماس رایگان تصویری با کیفیت بالا posted on December 22, 2021 at 2:33 am
شما برای داشتن یک تماس صوتی و تصویری با کیفیت بالا باید از یک برنامه حرفه ای در این زمینه استفاده کنید که کار اصلی برنامه برقراری تماس های صوتی و تصویری باشد که در این میان میتوان یکی از بهترین برنامه های در این زمینه را ایمو معرفی کرد که شما با دانلود ایمو جدید که برای اندروید و ایفون موجود است میتوانید از آن برای برقراری تماس های صوتی و تصویری خود استفاده کنید.مسنجر ایمو کاملا رایگان است و شما میتوانید با نصب آن به راحتی در تماس های صوتی و تصویری خود از ان استفاده کنید.
Reddington Security posted on December 23, 2021 at 4:47 am
Reddington provides the best security services for the clients including monitoring, personal security services, virtual patrolling, etc. Come and grab the best deals here by hiring the best security officers!
restorative dentist posted on December 26, 2021 at 3:21 am
Treatments from other dental specialties, including as endodontics, prosthodontics, and periodontics, are included in this section of dentistry. This is due to the fact that many patients require complex care, which may necessitate therapy from many specialists.
Mozhila.com posted on December 30, 2021 at 2:29 am
Good morning kiss head to your home and you have a nice night at home analysis and you have the profits
Mark posted on December 30, 2021 at 4:23 pm
It was incredible reading all the info that you shared with us in this article. I will be visiting more to see other topics you wrote about. Have a good day.
نحوه مشارکت در ساخت posted on January 16, 2022 at 4:59 pm
In cases where the landowner intends to demolish his property but does not have enough money to build a new building, participating in the construction is the best option.
Amisha Sharma posted on January 18, 2022 at 3:11 am
impressive information about a lonely planet.
Pooja Girdher posted on January 18, 2022 at 4:01 am
Great
air duct posted on January 19, 2022 at 3:47 am
Cleaning the ducts has never been proven to prevent health problems. Neither do studies convincingly show that filthy air ducts increase particle (e.g., dust) levels in dwellings. This is due to the fact that much of the filth in air ducts sticks to the surfaces of the ducts and does not necessarily enter the living environment. It’s crucial to remember that filthy air ducts are just one of many potential sources of particulates in the home. Pollutants can enter the home from both outside and inside activities such as cooking, cleaning, smoking, or simply moving around, exposing you to more toxins than unclean air ducts. Furthermore, there is no proof that a small amount of dust or other particle matter in your air ducts is harmful to your health.
Create Business Profile posted on January 19, 2022 at 7:05 am
Thank you for providing the information with post. The post is very nice, by the way, I want to share with you information about the best. this is great inspiring Article. visit my website now.
elli posted on January 22, 2022 at 7:02 am
ghasedak24 can be considered as one of the best sites or travel agencies that sells travel services. This site belongs to farsh ta arsh ghasedak karmania Company and many travelers use it to buy plane, train, bus and charter tickets.
สมัครเล่น เบทฟิก สล็อตเว็บตรง posted on February 12, 2022 at 7:36 am
พนันออนไลน์ เกมสล็อต เกมคาสิโน แทงบอล เว็บตรงไม่ผ่านเอเย่นต์ ที่เปิดให้บริการมานานกว่า 10 ปี มีระบบ ฝาก-ถอนเงิน อัตโนมัติ (Auto) มีความมั่นคง ปลอดภัยทางการเงินสูง และรหัสผ่านสูง 100% เว็บไซต์ที่ออกมาแบบมาเข้าถึงผู้ใช้งานอย่างแท้จริง สมัครง่าย เล่นง่าย เมนูภาษาไทย รองรับการเข้าใช้งานทั้ง คอมพิวเตอร์ Pc, โน๊ตบุ็ค, แท็บเล็ต และสมาร์ทโฟน หรือโทรศัพท์มือถือ ภายใต้ระบบปฏิบัติการของ iOS, Android
SEO Yarismasi posted on February 13, 2022 at 7:28 am
SEO ile ilgili harika bilglier burada, hic kacirma!
kresek posted on February 14, 2022 at 11:44 am
I got this web site from my buddy who informed me about this web page and now this time I am visiting this site and reading very informative articles or reviews at this place.
dataiptv posted on February 17, 2022 at 4:56 am
great info and yep keep posting good content
zahra hvac posted on February 18, 2022 at 7:18 am
Thanks for sharing this informative blog
Yaşam İnsan Kaynakları posted on February 27, 2022 at 9:59 am
thank you bursa hasta bakıcı, bursa yaşlı bakıcı
ahmed posted on February 27, 2022 at 11:31 am
thank you bursa hasta bakıcı, bursa yaşlı bakıcı
دليل الكويت posted on February 27, 2022 at 11:31 am
thank you bursa hasta bakıcı, bursa yaşlı bakıcı
dailyprimenews posted on March 10, 2022 at 10:02 pm
more latest news more latest news more latest news more latest news more latest news
dailyprimen posted on March 10, 2022 at 11:42 pm
อต เกมคาสิโน แทงบอล เว็บตรงไม่ผ่านเอเย่นต์ ที่เปิดให้บริการมานานกว่า 10 ปี มีระบบ ฝาก-ถอนเงิน อัตโนมัvอต เกมคาสิโน แทงบอล เว็บตรงไม่ผ่านเอเย่นต์ ที่เปิดให้บริการมานานกว่า 10 ปี มีระบบ ฝาก-ถอนเงิน อัตโนมั
dailyprimen posted on March 10, 2022 at 11:58 pm
thank you bursa hasta bakıcı, bursa yaşlı bakıcthank you bursa hasta bakıcı, bursa yaşlı bakıcıvthank you bursa hasta bakıcı, bursa yaşlı bakıcı
responsiblenews posted on March 11, 2022 at 12:01 am
the living environment. It’s crucial to remember that filthy air ducts are just one of many potential sources of particulates in the home. Pollutants can enter the home from both outside and inside activities such as cooking, cleaning, smoking, or simply moving around, exposing you to more t
responsiblenews posted on March 11, 2022 at 12:02 am
g environment. It’s crucial to remember that filthy air ducts are just one of many potential sources of particulates in the home. Pollutants can enter the home from both outside and inside activities such as cooking, cleaning, smoking, or simply moving around, exposing you to more tg environment. It’s crucial to remember that filthy air ducts are just one of many potential sources of particulates in the home. Pollutants can enter the home from both outside and inside activities such as cooking, cleaning, smoking, or simply moving around, exposing you to more t
responsiblenews posted on March 11, 2022 at 12:03 am
ucial to remember that filthy air ducts are just one of many potential sources of particulates in the home. Pollutants can enter the home from both outside and inside activities such as cooking, cleaning, smoking, or simply moving around, exposing you to more tucial to remember that filthy air ducts are just one of many potential sources of particulates in the home. Pollutants can enter the home from both outside and inside activities such as cooking, cleaning, smoking, or simply moving around, exposing you to more t
todaybusinessnews posted on March 11, 2022 at 12:03 am
ember that filthy air ducts are just one of many potential sources of particulates in the home. Pollutants can enter the home from both outside and inside activities such as cooking, cleaning, smoking, or simply moving around, exposing you to more tember that filthy air ducts are just one of many potential sources of particulates in the home. Pollutants can enter the home from both outside and inside activities such as cooking, cleaning, smoking, or simply moving around, exposing you to more t
todaybusinessnews posted on March 11, 2022 at 12:04 am
ly moving around, exposing you to more tember that filthy air ducts are just one of many potential sources of particulates in the home. Pollutants can enter the home from both outside and inside activities such as cooking, cleaning, smoking, or simply moving around, exposing yo
todaybusinessnews posted on March 11, 2022 at 12:04 am
ates in the home. Pollutants can enter the home from both outside and inside activities such as cooates in the home. Pollutants can enter the home from both outside and inside activities such as coo
veritytodaynews posted on March 11, 2022 at 12:05 am
home. Pollutants can enter the home from both outside and inside activities such as cooking, cle home. Pollutants can enter the home from both outside and inside activities such as cooking, cle
QlickBank posted on March 12, 2022 at 6:07 am
Thanks. QlickBank #1 Exclusive Affiliate Marketing Network for 2022. Best Affiliate Programs For Publishers. Either As An Advertiser Acquire More Customers Today!
War in Ukraine posted on March 23, 2022 at 4:35 pm
Russia is conducting an open military invasion of Ukraine. Civilians are being killed by Russian fascists, Russian soldiers are maroders.
ole777 casino posted on March 27, 2022 at 11:12 pm
Backlinks
Agen Slot Gacor posted on March 29, 2022 at 3:28 am
a
Home clean posted on March 31, 2022 at 7:39 am
it is very good topic