Qeqertarsuaq

Qeqertarsuaq framed by ice

Qeqertarsuaq framed by ice

It can’t be more than thirty miles from Ilulissat, but tiny Qeqertarsuaq––the only active settlement on Disko Island––is worlds apart in every way. For one thing, the island is relatively new (in geological terms), so the bizarre basalt cliffs and thick, verdant vegetation are markedly different from anything to the west. But the town itself has a completely different feel, too: sleepy, relaxed, relatively indifferent to the visitors who trickle in off the ferry. Large, bright blue icebergs dot the bay, rumbling and calving all through the night. It ended up being more than a nice respite from the bustle of Ilulissat and actually one of my favorite spots in all of Greenland.

Qeqertarsuaq's museum

Qeqertarsuaq's museum

The colonial old town is pretty much limited to the former inspector’s home, which now functions as the town museum. It seems that the bulk of the funding for the museum was made possible by the descendents of Philip Rosendahl, who served as the bailiff for the entire northwestern region of Greenland during the early part of the last century. As a result, much of the first floor is dedicated to him––the walls are covered with photos, and his bailiff’s uniform, complete with gold-braided epaulettes. is proudly displayed in a large glass case. It’s all very comical because you can tell from the photos that Rosendahl was someone who did not like a big fuss to be made about him. It’s possible to pick him out in group shots just by his posture––standing always a bit awkwardly off to the side, slinking down a little, always the man apart. I feel confident he would have been embarrassed by the idea of the exhibit, so the whole thing is sort of amusing. The woman running the museum was kind enough to leave it open while I lingered in the reading room upstairs. There were lots of yellowing community papers and pamphlets that made me sorry not to be able to to read Greenlandic, or even much Danish. Still, it was possible to glean some tidbits after lots of time spent digging.

The driver harnesses the dogs

The driver harnesses the dogs

Disko Island is the only place in Greenland where it’s possible to dogsled during the summer months––high up on the Lyngsmarksbraen, whose ice cap stays frozen year-round. Getting up to the base hut is a steep but really pleasant climb; with few switchbacks, it’s pretty much straight up into the clouds, but once you clear them the sun is bright and glorious.

Once up top, I drank coffee and ice melt on the porch of the hut and waited for the ride to begin. In true Greenlandic fashion, there’s no indication of where or when or what to do. When I heard dogs yipping, I walked over and stood and watched them get harnessed. When the driver was finished, he walked straight past me and yelled up to the hut. Coming back, he seemed confused why I wasn’t already on the sled. I sat down, he fussed with the lines, and all of the sudden we were flying.

A member of the sled team

A member of the sled team

It was great, of course––how could it not be? He clucked and hissed and whistled constantly at the fifteen dogs, nicking their paws with the end of a whip for infractions I couldn’t discern. The dogs kicked through the snow, tails up, constantly changing position. The driver spoke no Danish, let along English, so I couldn’t even begin to ask the million questions I wanted to. After about 45 minutes, we stopped abruptly. The dogs immediately started gulping greedily at the snow, the driver stood up to piss, then sat down again and lit a cigarette. I walked around for a while, snapping pictures of the dogs, many of whom were already napping. After 10 minutes, he tossed his cigarette, I quickly hopped on the sled, and we sped off back to the hut. The way back was almost all downhill, the clouds clearing to reveal the icy bay all spread out below. When we got back, he tied the dogs up and hopped on a snowmobile to travel maybe fifty feet to the hut. It was funny––very Greenlandic, really.

Disko Island's basalt

Disko Island's basalt

The opportunity to dogsled made Qeqertarsuaq unforgettable, but I also really loved the sea cliffs east of town. About an hour’s walk from the center, tracing the coast line, the rolling hills change dramatically, to strange pillars of basalt. Assuming all manner of otherworldly shapes, the cliffs and caves are further enhanced by glacial melt pouring through their porous sides, and wet moss growing around beds of brightly colored wildflowers. The whole maze of rock formations just goes and goes, every turn offering new, incredible views. The whole thing is really beyond description––like the perfect spot for the world’s best game of hide-and-seek.

47 Comments

cimalight posted on November 15, 2021 at 8:36 pm

Thanks a lot…..

kiosk lockdown software posted on November 17, 2021 at 4:01 am

Good share.

Ulingame posted on November 30, 2021 at 11:31 am

It’s amazing the scenery of this village where there is a lot of pure white snow coupled with mountains and hills. If there is time I want to travel to this place.

parking fury posted on December 1, 2021 at 11:56 pm

Honestly, I found something new from this beautiful post. I am really thankful to you for this awesome post.

pacificgardencampustown.com posted on December 1, 2021 at 11:58 pm

Pacific Garden merupakan hunian milenial terbaik yang berlokasi di Alam Sutera Barat Kav. 19B Tangerang, Banten. Apartemen dengan konsep CAMPUS TOWN ini sangat bagus, karena dekat dengan kampus UBM, SGU, dan Binus University

Evissa posted on December 3, 2021 at 3:22 am

Thank you for a nice share.

Aslanakaya Dokum posted on December 3, 2021 at 3:23 am

Thank you for a very informative article.

jual boiler pemanas aspal posted on December 3, 2021 at 9:59 am

Your writings and news are really interesting to me. There are numerous advantages to the contents. Thank you so much.

سدیم تری پلی فسفات posted on December 3, 2021 at 11:17 pm

than waiting for the county court bailiffs. In some cases we have saved claim

3d Görselleştirme posted on December 4, 2021 at 9:43 am

I spend almost a week on your site. I am following. I’m dealing with interior architecture visualization at myself. If you want to examine my site;

sandra rommel posted on December 6, 2021 at 4:58 am

Nice blog and absolutely outstanding. You can do something much better but I still say this is perfect. Keep trying for the best.

Baby Walker posted on December 6, 2021 at 7:53 am

Nice and awesome post! thanks for sharing such a valuable information with us. Keep posting.

centrale à beton posted on December 6, 2021 at 5:15 pm

We announce your site. Maintaining continued success. We are interested in both Turkey and concrete plants. If you want to search our website;

arnold dk posted on December 8, 2021 at 12:17 am

very nice article and information about the island. interesting Greenland. I will try to go to Greenland for summer vacation.

سارن موزیک posted on December 8, 2021 at 12:28 pm

Good Work

villa içmimar posted on December 9, 2021 at 2:38 pm

Your website gives successful results. We are in the process of following your articles. We, too, provide interior design services in Turkey. If you want to follow;

bangalore escort posted on December 10, 2021 at 6:56 pm

i am ashika soni

فروشگاه پت شاپ مانا ارغوان posted on December 15, 2021 at 2:49 am

شاید در نگاه اول با خودتان بگویید لباس جزو نیاز های اولیه یک حیوان نیست، اما باید بگویم که سخت در اشتباهید.
حیواناتی مثل گربه و سگ حیواناتی باهوش و احساساتی هستند. به این صورت که تمام تلاششان جلب توجه صاحب و اطرافیان است . آنها نیاز دارند که نوازش شوند ، به آنها این حس که اهمیت دارند را منتقل کنید و خرید لباس و اسباب بازی در اینجا یکی از بهترین روش های ابراز احساسات است.
مانا ارغوان پت عرضه کننده لباس سگ و لباس گربه با بالاترین کیفیت و کمترین قیمت

ME posted on December 15, 2021 at 2:53 am

پنجره دوجداره
پنجره دوجداره یکی از روش های کارآمد و به صرفه برای حل مشکل آلودگی صوتی و هدررفت انرژی در خانه ها و محل کار است.
در این مقاله هدف این است که حدود قیمت پنجره دوجداره در پاییز ۱۴۰۰ را ارائه کنیم . اما برای اینکه بتوانیم قیمت‌ها را ارائه کنیم لازم است که با یک سری عوامل اثرگذار بر قیمت پنجره دو جداره آشنا بشویم.
به کار بردن پروفیل باکیفیت و شیشه مناسب در ساخت درب و پنجره دو جداره براساس لیست قیمت ارائه شده را در انتخاب خود فراموش نکنید.
ادامه …

GITI posted on December 15, 2021 at 2:55 am

تجارت بین الملل راهی برای گسترش هر چه بیشتر تجارت شماست، اما بعد از اینکه فروش یا خرید خود را انجام دادید، باید به دنبال حمل و نقل آن باشید.
شرکت حمل و نقل بین المللی گیتی رسان کالا ارائه دهنده خدمات ترانزیت کالا و حمل و نقل دریایی، حمل و نقل ریلی، حمل و نقل هوایی و حمل و نقل زمینی کالا با همکاری شرکتهای حمل و نقل بین المللی مطرح دنیا در ایران و سایر کشورهای آسیایی و اروپایی در امر صادرات کالا و واردات و ترانزیت داخلی و خارجی درحال فعالیت می باشد.
شركت حمل و نقل بين المللي فرازرانان جهان با بهره گيري از امكانات متعدد ، پرسنل تحصيل كرده و آگاه به آخرين روش هاي صنعت حمل و نقل و عضو انجمن شركت هاي حمل و نقل بين المللی ايران و اتاق بازرگاني و صنايع و معادن ايران مفتخر است خدمات خويش را به صاحبان كالاي وارداتي ، صادراتی و ترانزيت ارائه نمايد.

pigeon control madinah posted on December 15, 2021 at 4:04 am

Really great and useful post.

Diana Abbasi posted on December 15, 2021 at 8:51 am

دربی شاپ

marmer lokal posted on December 21, 2021 at 11:44 pm

Thanks for sharing such a good article with us

دانلود رایگان با لینک مستقیم posted on December 22, 2021 at 2:25 am

برای استفاده از واتساپ و استفاده همزمان دو اکانت در یک گوشی باید از نسخه های دیگر واتساپ استفاده کنید که ما به شما واتساپ پلاس را پیشنهاد میدهیم که با نصب نسخه جدید آن میتوانید به راحتی یک اکانت دیگر در کنار اکانت قبلی خود داشته باشید. واتساپ پلاس یکی از بهترین نسخه های غیررسمی واتساپ اصلی است که توانسته بین کاربران جایگاه خوبی را پیدا کند و روز به روز به علاقمندان واتساپ پلاس افزوده میشود.

Appslite posted on December 23, 2021 at 1:14 pm

Is very important article

cimalight posted on December 25, 2021 at 5:36 pm

Thanks for the cool post….

GB Whatsapp Apk posted on December 27, 2021 at 10:04 am

Thank you for sharing this. It was helpful. Keep sharing such things.

izspa posted on December 29, 2021 at 3:24 am

Great article thank you.

izspa posted on December 30, 2021 at 12:44 am

Great article thank you so much.

massage near me posted on December 30, 2021 at 1:45 am

Thanks for sharing this information.have shared this link with others keep posting such information.

Massage parlour near me posted on December 30, 2021 at 3:55 am

Thanks for this blog it have very useful info.

Mozhila.com posted on December 30, 2021 at 6:01 am

مذهلة للناس المذهلة احلي مواضيع في العالم

b2b spa near me posted on December 31, 2021 at 4:13 am

Good blog thank you so much

Pinoy Tv Shows posted on December 31, 2021 at 11:19 am

its very nice blog thank you so much for information.

spa69 posted on January 1, 2022 at 12:01 pm

Wonderful blog thank you

تعبیر خواب مرده posted on January 2, 2022 at 4:27 am

Good blog thank you so much

Plastik Kemasan posted on January 4, 2022 at 12:46 am

I’ve been to disco island once, it’s almost the same as what you said

Forklift Electric posted on January 4, 2022 at 12:47 am

Now it’s just a memory, thanks for making this my friend

Eufouria posted on January 4, 2022 at 12:48 am

wow my house has been explored, welcome friends

Jasa kirim mobil posted on January 4, 2022 at 12:49 am

Thanks’s bro

Nuru massage posted on January 8, 2022 at 4:45 am

wonderful bro

Erotic massage posted on January 8, 2022 at 6:03 am

nice blog thanks

SEO posted on January 10, 2022 at 2:59 am

I have read all the comments and suggestions posted by the visitors for this article are very fine,We will wait for your next article so only.Thanks!

Massage near me posted on January 10, 2022 at 5:54 am

Good blog

Nuru massage posted on January 11, 2022 at 2:20 am

Great blog

Pinoyflix posted on January 11, 2022 at 10:10 am

Disko Island is pure love to watch.

Credit Hub posted on January 12, 2022 at 4:04 pm

helpfull article. Tnks

Post a Comment

Your email address is never shared. Required fields are marked *