Day 4 to N67º03 x W52º38
Drying out at one of the huts
We got rained on only once, but it was a killer––ten hours of downpour, observed restlessly from the tent, before deciding we couldn’t bear to wait it out. We spent a while strategizing how to cook breakfast and break down our camp most dryly and efficiently, but of course we were soaked through upon departure. Fortunately, the hut we hoped to make by evening was upon us by mid-afternoon, but the last hundred yards involved a rushing river crossing that had me going face-first into the water. In the end, the hut made everything better––a Greenlandic family was already hunkered down, the kerosene stove roaring. They kindly cleared space on the clothesline and pretended not to be grossed out while I bandaged the foot I’d sliced up on the sharp rocks from the river. We learned later that the mother was a superstar athlete––an annual competitor in Greenland’s grueling Arctic Circle X-C ski race––and felt a bit sheepish about our drenched and sorry state. We ended up staying all afternoon and evening, reading Tolstoy, drinking whiskey, and eating chocolate.
Day 5 to N66º59 x W52º21
One of the last cairns we'd see on Day 5
On this afternoon we missed a cairn and climbed steeply up a hunting trail, surprising a mother duck who did an elaborate pantomime of wounded flight to distract us from her vulnerable ducklings. Realizing our wayfinding mistake, but refusing to go all the way down again only to climb the ridge elsewhere, we decided to plunge ahead with the map as our guide, following a river and then a shoreline with the intention of meeting up with the trail again by evening. It was sort of an unwise improvisation, but it paid off in one of my favorite moments of the hike. Bushwhacking through dwarf willow, swatting helplessly at bugs, I thought I spotted a cairn very high on a ridge. It was too soon to be the trail, but we climbed up to it anyway, discovering that it was much longer and lower than the other piles of rock. Gazing out at an incredible view––the lake spread out towards the horizon, birds diving from the edge of the rocky bluff––I realized that it was a grave. The National Museum in Nuuk had mentioned how, for centuries, the Inuit buried their dead under stones, and always at the mouths of rivers or overlooking large bays. This fit that description exactly, and although I would see a number of such graves in the weeks after, none was as haunting––or with a view as breathtaking––as this one.
Day 7 to N66º55 x W51º31
Paddling on Day 7
There is one leg of the hike where you can cheat magnificently. There are eight or so canoes on one of the long glacial lakes that the Arctic Circle Trail traces for a good 15 miles. Because everyone for some reason hikes the trail going the other way, the boats tend to pile up at the west end of the lake. We hit this point on Day 7––shoulders and calves screaming, sick of walking, desperate for any other possible mode of transport. Seeing the aluminum canoes shining from atop a ridge was great, but the paddling itself was even better. We stowed our bags between the gunwales an slipped into the glassy water. For part of the afternoon the surface was so still that the reflection of mountains and clouds was eerily exact––it was so impossible to tell up from down that it felt like we were paddling through the sky. We camped on an isolated spit on the far end of the lake and listened to the loons call back and forth all evening.
50 Comments
Kanalreinigung Wien posted on September 28, 2022 at 2:13 pm
Sie benötigen eine Rohrreinigung oder Kanalreinigung in Wien? Kein Problem, unser Partnernetzwerk regelt das.
Installateur Notdienst Niederösterreich posted on September 28, 2022 at 2:14 pm
Ihre helfende Hand, wenn Sie Probleme mit Gas, Wasser, Heizung und Sanitär haben. Auch im Notfall für Sie da mit 24 Stunden Service!
Instalateur Notdienst 1010 Wien posted on September 28, 2022 at 2:17 pm
Ihr Ansprechpartner in der Inneren Stadt bei GWHS Gebrechen.
Installateur Notdienst 1020 Wien posted on September 28, 2022 at 2:17 pm
Ihr Installateur Notdienst in der Leopoldstadt.
Installateur Notdienst 1030 Wien posted on September 28, 2022 at 2:18 pm
Ihr Installateur Notdienst in der Landstraße.
Installateur Notdienst 1040 Wien posted on September 28, 2022 at 2:19 pm
Ihr Installateur Notdienst in Wieden.
Installateur Notdienst 1050 Wien posted on September 28, 2022 at 2:20 pm
Ihr Installateur Notdienst in Margareten.
Kfz Gutacter Essen posted on September 29, 2022 at 1:36 am
It was a good article, congratulations – Kfz Gutachter Essen – Stern GmbH
Ebin Jose posted on September 29, 2022 at 5:28 am
Southern Sages is a new-age full-service advertising and digital marketing agency located in Kochi, Kerala, India.
Paito SGP posted on September 29, 2022 at 9:28 am
thanks informations. i like blog you. sangat menguntuk kan bagi para penyedia website untuk saya dan kita semua. thanks
brown leather jacket posted on September 29, 2022 at 11:27 am
brown leather jacket Super. I also got a discount for next purchase when I send a picture here. Will get my wife something too
black leather jacket posted on September 29, 2022 at 12:44 pm
black leather jacket Perfect for everyone who is looking for a great Black leather jacket, good that I was able to get it while it was on sale. I saw an ad before it was without the discount and didn’t want to pay for it, but because it’s on sale now, I got it immediately. Recommend
trafficticket posted on September 30, 2022 at 1:16 am
There are many options for dealing with a traffic ticket. You can choose to pay online or in person. However, remember that paying a traffic ticket is like admitting guilt. It could lead to higher insurance rates and even loss of your driving privileges in moving violation. You should consider all your options carefully before making any decisions about Municipal Complaint. You can try to avoid getting a traffic ticket by avoiding bribery and flirting with the police officer. There are few police officers who are corrupt in real life, and they are not likely to fall for your blatant flirtation. Moreover, no one wants their integrity called into question. So Online Payment is easy options to pay bills. NJMCDirect allows visitors to pay traffic ticket online by visiting this official site
technoblade merch posted on September 30, 2022 at 6:31 am
This is an incredible inspiring article. I am basically satisfied with your great work. You put actually quite supportive information. Keep it up.
DramaCool posted on October 1, 2022 at 3:03 pm
Nic Like It!
IPPrism posted on October 2, 2022 at 7:38 am
The Polar Circle Trail is one that has been well known to nearly every professional cyclist who has ever raced on the Tour de France. It’s been a part of the Tour since 1998 and is among the longest bike races in the world, covering some 2,500 km. If you’ve ever wondered how long it takes to ride that distance, or just how hard it is to ride that distance without getting winded — well now you know.
artistes posted on October 2, 2022 at 3:41 pm
Chant, Ciné, Pub, Figuration, Télé… Grâce à nos relations privilégiées dans le milieu artistique, vous êtes au courant de TOUS les castings et pouvez participer aux castings les plus prisés du moment. Autre garantie : tous nos castings sont vérifiés !
cheap reseller panel posted on October 3, 2022 at 4:38 am
Thanks so much for the blog article.Much thanks again.
Ankara Eşya Depolama posted on October 3, 2022 at 4:50 am
ankara eşya depolama, ankara esya depolama, ankara eşya deposu, ankara esya deposu, Ankara kiralık depo, Ankara kiralık eşya deposu, Ayrancı eşya depolama, Ayrancı eşya deposu, Ayrancı kiralık eşya depolama, Bahçeli evler eşya depolama, Bahçeli evler kiralık eşya deposu, Bahçelievler eşya deposu, cankaya esya depolama, çankaya eşya depolama, cankaya esya deposu, çankaya esya deposu, çayyolu eşya depolama, Çayyolu eşya deposu, çayyolu kiralık depo, çayyolu kiralık eşya deposu, dikmen eşya depolama, dikmen eşya deposu, Eryaman eşya depolama, eryaman eşya deposu, eryaman kiralık eşya deposu, Ümitköy eşya depolama, Ümitköy eşya deposu, ümitköy kiralık eşya depolama
Official Yellowstone Merchandise posted on October 3, 2022 at 7:48 am
Your post content is being interested by a lot of people, I am very impressed with your post. I hope to receive more good articles.
Akhtar Iqbal posted on October 3, 2022 at 8:26 am
I honestly accept this exceptional post involving relevant information with all the simple facts.
Muhammad Ali posted on October 3, 2022 at 8:27 am
Post is actually well composed and all the concepts are composed in a professional style.
Muhammad Usman posted on October 3, 2022 at 8:29 am
I cherish to read your articles because of your memorable habits exchanged in the post that not only amuse yet likewise help us learn lots of things.
J-p-s posted on October 3, 2022 at 11:16 am
You wrote about one of my favorite topics. It is a very good and well written article.
Tea Time posted on October 3, 2022 at 5:22 pm
This type of message always inspiring and I prefer to read quality content, so happy to find good place to many here in the post, the writing is just great, thanks for the post.
charlidamelio posted on October 4, 2022 at 1:36 am
I like your blog because it is so informative. I learned a lot from your post thank you.
bts merch store posted on October 4, 2022 at 1:50 am
BTS Merchandise is a clothing brand based in US. Get BTS hoodie, BTS t shirt, at sale price. 50% off and fast shipping.
Physics Lab Equipment Manufacturers posted on October 4, 2022 at 3:21 am
Physics Lab Equipment Manufacturers and suppliers
ام دی اف posted on October 4, 2022 at 3:38 am
MDF مخفف کلمه ی Medium Density Fiberboard به معنای تخته چوب با تراکم یا چگالی متوسط است که بسیار شبیه به تخته خرده چوب (نئوپان) میباشد اما بسیار قویتر از آن است و امروزه کاربرد های فراوانی در صنایع مختلف از جمله کابینت سازی دارد.خیلی از افراد به دلیل کاربرد های مشابه در بعضی موارد، از ام دی اف به جای پلای وود یا تخته چندلایی استفاده میکنند،
که کار درستی نیست زیرا از لحاظ ساختار و ویژگی بسیار با یکدیگر متفاوت هستند و تنها در برخی موارد، کاربرد یکسان دارند.
smm reseller panel posted on October 4, 2022 at 7:22 am
Major thankies for the blog article.Really looking forward to read more. Great.
shilajit holland and barrett posted on October 5, 2022 at 7:53 am
I was looking for the same article but I visited many websites. Glad to see that you wrote in such a well manner way. Hope for good.
gihosoft-tubeget-pro-8-9-32-crack posted on October 5, 2022 at 2:37 pm
Gihosoft TubeGet Pro 8.9.32 Crack is a fantastic application. When the movies have been downloaded, it will save all of their data. As a result, downloading movies from social media
pink bape shirt posted on October 6, 2022 at 3:43 am
First of all, I would like to thank you for the wonderful knowledge you have shared with us. I read your post thoroughly and the post provides great information as it is very helpful for me. Keep sharing such information as it is very useful for us.
Typing Speed posted on October 6, 2022 at 3:50 am
Thank you so much for the post you do. I like your post and all you share with us is up to date and quite informative, i would like to bookmark the page so i can come here again to read you, as you have done a wonderful job.
Savitri Singh
Digital India posted on October 6, 2022 at 3:53 am
Thank you so much for the post you do. I like your post and all you share with us is up to date and quite informative, i would like to bookmark the page so i can come here again to read you, as you have done a wonderful job.
Savitri Singh
Nsp posted on October 6, 2022 at 3:54 am
Thank you so much for the post you do. I like your post and all you share with us is up to date and quite informative, i would like to bookmark the page so i can come here again to read you, as you have done a wonderful job.
Savitri Singh
SSP posted on October 6, 2022 at 3:54 am
Thank you so much for the post you do. I like your post and all you share with us is up to date and quite informative, i would like to bookmark the page so i can come here again to read you, as you have done a wonderful job.
Savitri Singh
ipprism posted on October 6, 2022 at 5:03 am
I took the time to read them and found them quite interesting. Your article is very informational. Thanks for sharing.
Muhammad Ali posted on October 6, 2022 at 9:43 am
Lots of gratitudes for partaking this helpful points with noteworthy selection of phrases.
Muhammad Usman posted on October 6, 2022 at 9:44 am
Best and significant details discussed in your article customarily.
Akhtar Iqbal posted on October 6, 2022 at 9:45 am
I certainly accept this very good blog post offering relevant information with all the actualities.
Valorant Bedava VP Kodları posted on October 6, 2022 at 8:27 pm
Thank you so much for the post you do. I like your post and all you share with us is up to date and quite informative, i would like to bookmark the page so i can come here again to read you, as you have done a wonderful job.
https://mt-tiger.com/ posted on October 7, 2022 at 12:29 am
I read a good article. It was very helpful and provided a lot of reference.
은꼴 후방주의 posted on October 7, 2022 at 12:33 am
An intriguing discussion may be worth comment. I’m sure you should write much more about this topic.
brown leather jacket posted on October 7, 2022 at 7:26 am
brown leather jacket Super. I also got a discount for next purchase when I send a picture here. Will get my wife something too
เว็บตรงไม่ผ่านตัวแทน posted on October 7, 2022 at 9:40 am
Excellent post it is very helpful and knowledgeable content good work keep it up.
chem trading posted on October 8, 2022 at 1:22 am
Hello, I’m new to this site and I’m liking your blog post. Okay, thank you so much for taking the time to share this with us.
bts shirts posted on October 8, 2022 at 10:00 am
Enjoy New Arrival BTS Merhcandise T Shirts, Limited Stock. All Colors are Available in our BTS Merch store. Come Fast and Order Now. bts shirts
sagar posted on October 9, 2022 at 6:04 am
this is such a great article i never read like this please keep it up
Suzen posted on October 9, 2022 at 10:46 am
Thank you for the share