Ilulissat ice
“This is it,” raves the Lonely Planet. “This is why you came to Greenland and spent all that money. Ilulissat is one of those places so spectacular that it just makes everything else pale in comparison.” Well, call me contrarian, but there are a half-dozen towns and settlements I’ll look back on more fondly. Home to a UNESCO world heritage site––the truly awesome Ilulissat Kangerlua (icefjord), choked with towering, glistening, impossibly sized bergs from the most prolific glacier outside of Antarctica–and a smothering tourist industry to match it, Ilulissat is a town where you can drop $100 for two nights of camping and a hiking map; where the Air Greenland-owned “World of Greenland” tourist office sells obscenely expensive excursions and boasts display cases full of artisanal crafts carved from polar bear claws and endangered whale species––with disingenuous signs reminding that these things are illegal to export (as if native Greenlanders are their intended customers).
Trying to capture the ice
The ice is gorgeous; the town stinks a little. I’m sincerely glad that there are benches and wooden walkways––not everything should be wild and mosquito-bitten and miles from any town or road. But there is nowhere in Ilulissat to even get impartial information. Every “tourism office” is furiously peddling something, and people seem dizzy if they’re not buying just the right thing. The Lonely Planet is right-–Ilulissat is unmistakably suffused with a sense that “this is it,” but it’s that very quality that makes it frantic, fraught, and a little depressing. I wandered around for days, snapping photos of the ice, using other people’s enormous cameras to snap photos of them in front of the ice, and after a while I realized that part of the problem is that the photos never do it. Every one is so frustrating because it’s impossible to capture the scale or the colors, and every botched attempt makes it necessary to snap two more, to shell out for a helicopter or a boat that will take you even closer to something so massive and indifferent and impossible to comprehend. Finally, I fought the urge and put my camera away.
Rasmussen's birthplace
Here are some things that redeemed Ilulissat for me. Knud Rasmussen was born here (speaking of larger than life) and the old vicarage where he was born now houses a museum. There’s a little curtained-off corner where you can linger and watch his 1933 film Palo’s Wedding, and on the creaky top floor are the original drawings he collected from Polar Inuit during his 5th Thule Expedition––the “Danish Ethnographic Expedition to Arctic America.” These drawings are so marvelous–so modest and small and compositionally elegant. They’re like little pencil-scratched depictions of dogsleds and seal hunters atop an Agnes Martin canvas. I loved them, and how they’re displayed in a creaky old attic. They were a wonderful little escape from town.
One of the Polar Inuit drawings
On my way out to the airport––a long trudge with a heavy pack––an old man pulled over his pick-up even before I could stick out my thumb. He was headed to the airport to pick up his sister, visiting from Sisimiut. He was bursting with excitement to see her. He had few teeth and spoke almost no English, but we muddled through together. It couldn’t have been more than 3 or 4 km. of driving, but he slowed way down to get his story out. He was a proud Sisimiut booster, raising his fist triumphantly every time he said the word. I asked him why he’d moved away and couldn’t really make straight his answer––his dogs are here and he can’t leave them. Can you take them back? Yes, but no. Do you hunt with them? Used to, but the ice in the bay isn’t what it used to be. Works at the fish processing plant now, but that’s not what it used to be either. Has lived in Ilulissat for twenty years, but it’s not Sisimiut. “Sisimiut!” he said again with a raised fist and a far-off smile. I could tell that he was slowing down to impart this elegaic message––that nothing is any longer what it used to be. But there he was, on the way to the airport to see his sister, bursting with happiness. The two sentiments kept fighting each other to a draw. It was a really nice ride.
50 Comments
Crowdlending Schweiz posted on February 9, 2023 at 11:08 am
Excellent! I thank you your blog post to this matter. It has been insightful. my blog: maple syrup diet
윈조이 머니상 posted on February 9, 2023 at 1:26 pm
There is noticeably a lot of money to comprehend this. I assume you’ve made certain nice points in functions also.
Uganda artists posted on February 12, 2023 at 10:40 am
J’apprécie cette diapositive toutefois j’en ai auparavant vu de semblable de meilleures qualité supérieure
Demolition Contractors Middlesex posted on February 14, 2023 at 11:28 am
Some really interesting info , well written and loosely user genial .
فن گستر پويا posted on February 15, 2023 at 6:07 am
سيستم هاي پيشبر پنوماتيکي نوار فلزي – فيدر
دستگاه فيدر يا تغذيه کننده و يا پيشبر وسيله ايست جهت جابه جا و انتقال و قرار نمودن مقدار معيني از نوار فلزي در جهت و مسير تعيين شده در هر سيکل کاري . مقدار حرکت و جابجايي نوار فلزي تغذيه شده در دهنه فيدر به وسيله گام دستگاه قابل تنظيم مي باشد . همچنين عرض نوار نيز با استفاده از قرقره دستگاه با قابليت تنظيم , تعيين مي گردد .مراحل فيدر : دو مراصولا حله عمليات کاري در فيدر قابل انجام مي باشد که هر کدام از اين مراحل نيز داراي چند حرکت متعدد مي باشند . مرحله اول (بارگيري) : اين مرحله و قسمت با ورود جريان برق به بوبين شير برقي (بادي)اتفاق مي افتد . در اين وضعيت هيچ حرکتي در نوار صورت نمي پذيرد لذا گيره ثابت فعال شده و گيره متحرک نوار را رها نموده و خود را به عقب مي راند . مرحله دوم : (تغذيه) در اين مرحله با قطع بوبين شير برقي (بادي) عمل جا به جاي نوار صورت مي پذيرد.به طوري که با قطع جريان برق گيره ثابت نوار رارها کرده و در مقابل گيره متحرک نوار را مي گيرد و به جلو مي راند .توجه : طول و مدت زمان برق دار شدن و همچنين طول و زمان قطع بوبين بسيار قابل توجه و مهم مي باشد علي الخصوص در مواردي که سرعتهاي حداکثري براي دستگاه تععين مي گردد . اگر فرمان ارسالي براي بوبين فيدر از سويچ و يا سنسور روي ميله لنگ پرس مي آيد و از بادامک استفاده مي شود بايد 180 درجه از دايره بادامک برجسته باشد .
PLASTIC CARDS posted on February 20, 2023 at 3:03 am
“I wish to show thanks to you for rescuing me from this particular predicament. Just after researching through the search engines and coming across techniques which were not pleasant, I believed my entire life was gone. Being alive without the solutions to the problems you’ve solved through the review is a critical case, and those that could have adversely affected my career if I had not discovered your web page. Your personal ability and kindness in playing with almost everything was invaluable. I’m not sure what I would’ve done if I hadn’t discovered such a stuff like this. I’m able to now relish my future. Thank you very much for your reliable and results-oriented guide. I won’t think twice to propose the blog to any person who needs and wants guide about this subject.”
vamosys posted on February 23, 2023 at 2:30 am
White Label GPS Tracking Software
Secure & Reliable
Best Mobile App
Whitelabelling for Resellers and Dealers
Compatible with best GPS Devices
Tesisatçı posted on February 23, 2023 at 4:13 pm
Yeni nesil ve yüksek teknolojili cihazlar kullanarak servis hizmeti sağlayıcıları ve tıkanıklık açma servislerine ulaşabilirsiniz.
Stan Wilson posted on March 7, 2023 at 3:21 am
Hi, Thank you for creating the brilliant content and helping me, people all around the globe to gain more knowledge. As a regular consumer of your podcasts, I have realized that most of the questions you ask applies to your own ongoing subjects & concerns in your various ventures and personal life which is good. However I would appreciate if you could broaden the spectrum a bit more. Just a recommendation to make the already brilliant content, even more helpful. Thank you.
Bape Shirt posted on March 15, 2023 at 3:51 pm
I haven’t checked in here for some time since I thought it was getting boring, but the last few posts are really good quality so I guess I will add you back to my daily bloglist. You deserve it my friend.
Popüler Bahis Siteleri posted on March 20, 2023 at 9:31 am
not everyone would need a nose job but my girlfriend really needs some rhinoplasty coz her nose is kind of crooked”
Canlı Rulet posted on March 20, 2023 at 10:39 am
not everyone would need a nose job but my girlfriend really needs some rhinoplasty coz her nose is kind of crooked”
Canlı Blackjack posted on March 20, 2023 at 11:13 am
kitchen aids have a variety of different appliances that can help you cook your food easier-
Vdcasino Kayıt posted on March 21, 2023 at 7:32 am
Audio began playing when I opened up this web site, so annoying!
Gaziantep Evde Sağlık posted on March 21, 2023 at 7:35 am
My brother recommended I may like this web site. He was once totally right. This post truly made my day. You cann’t imagine just how much time I had spent for this info! Thank you!
Canlı Blackjack posted on March 21, 2023 at 8:05 am
not everyone would need a nose job but my girlfriend really needs some rhinoplasty coz her nose is kind of crooked”
Betboo Kayıt posted on March 21, 2023 at 11:00 am
Audio began playing when I opened up this web site, so annoying!
Canlı Casino Siteleri posted on March 21, 2023 at 12:00 pm
This is very interesting! Great information and it is also very well written. I will bookmark and comeback soon.
tutorials posted on March 23, 2023 at 6:40 pm
It’s difficult to find knowledgeable men and women about this topic, nevertheless, you be understood as what happens you are discussing! Thanks
nitso posted on March 24, 2023 at 7:59 am
I am grateful for the valuable information provided in this article
fiewin apk posted on March 27, 2023 at 8:20 am
It’s nearly impossible to find knowledgeable individuals with this topic, however, you be understood as guess what happens you’re talking about! Thanks
TC Lottery posted on April 4, 2023 at 12:43 pm
That is the reason deal with one should specified research a long time before authoring. Could be potential towards further fascinating post in this manner.
best iptv service posted on April 6, 2023 at 5:39 am
There is currently some useful information that regarding to health problem around this subject on the net and some are most definitely better than others.
https://www.june2020.org/ posted on April 7, 2023 at 4:10 pm
beach houses are really nice and it would always be a warm and relaxing place’
pool builder posted on April 8, 2023 at 4:53 pm
This situation document appears to redeem a good deal of audience. Determine how to market it? The idea provides a amazing completely unique distort onto stuff. Reckon offering anything proper or alternatively great offer information about is central to the subject.
London Printers posted on April 9, 2023 at 2:15 am
Awesome and interesting article. Great things you’ve always shared with us. Thanks. Just continue composing this kind of post.
mantrimall app posted on April 10, 2023 at 2:24 pm
It’s difficult to get knowledgeable men and women with this topic, and you appear to be what happens you are dealing with! Thanks
비트겟 posted on April 13, 2023 at 6:55 pm
Delighted for you to discovered this website write-up, My group is shopping more often than not regarding this. This can be at this moment definitely what I are already seeking and I own book-marked this specific website online far too, I’ll often be keep returning soon enough to look at on your unique blog post.
Eyeglasses posted on April 19, 2023 at 8:05 am
Eyes are a gift we all possess. Due to eye conditions or continual use of high-tech equipment, we are need to wear eyeglasses. We also need to wear sunglasses to shield our eyes from UV rays and harsh sunshine. Design is now also essential. EASYSIGHT is the only response to all of your vision-related needs because we also take care of your eyes and looks.
Insta Pro Apk posted on April 23, 2023 at 3:03 am
Insta Pro APK is a modified version of the popular social media app, Instagram. This APK provides users with additional features and customization options that are not available in the original version of the app.
축구중계 posted on April 30, 2023 at 9:05 am
Hiya. Very nice web site!! Guy .. Excellent .. Superb .. I will bookmark this site and take the feeds also…I’m happy to locate so much useful information right here within the article. Thank you for sharing.
nfr las vegas posted on May 13, 2023 at 2:16 am
I’m grateful for the valuable insights and practical advice you provide in your articles. Your guidance has helped me navigate various aspects of life with confidence and clarity.
phoodle posted on May 15, 2023 at 2:18 am
Playing the Phoodle Game is simple, but becoming an expert is challenging. To begin, you need to input a five-letter word into the grid and hit the enter key on your keyboard. If you make a guess, the game will let you know how accurate it was by coloring in the letters.
News website posted on May 16, 2023 at 5:35 pm
I discovered your blog site on google and check a couple of of your early posts. Continue to keep up the very good operate. I just additional up your RSS feed to my MSN Information Reader. In search of forward to reading extra from you afterward!? I’m usually to running a blog and i really respect your content. The article has really peaks my interest. I’m going to bookmark your site and maintain checking for brand spanking new information.
netv gold posted on May 22, 2023 at 9:15 am
Nice post it’s useful
mantri mall game posted on May 27, 2023 at 9:27 am
Mantri mall game is a color prediction game where you can make money by doing some predictions. Mantrigame login and Mantrivip register here and make money.
orang tua slot posted on June 4, 2023 at 4:51 am
you have a great blog here! want to have the invite posts in my weblog?
Real Estate Agency posted on June 9, 2023 at 5:54 am
The ice is gorgeous; the town stinks a little. I’m sincerely glad that there are benches and wooden walkways––not everything should be wild and mosquito-bitten and miles from any town or road. But there is nowhere in Ilulissat to even get impartial information. Every “tourism office” is furiously peddling something, and people seem dizzy if they’re not buying just the right thing.
lifepo4 100ah battery posted on June 11, 2023 at 6:24 am
The subsequent time I learn a blog, I hope that it doesnt disappoint me as much as this one. I mean, I do know it was my choice to read, however I actually thought youd have something interesting to say. All I hear is a bunch of whining about something that you possibly can repair if you happen to werent too busy looking for attention.
best 32-inch monitor posted on June 11, 2023 at 6:51 am
It’s hard to find knowledgeable folks during this topic, however, you could be seen as do you know what you are dealing with! Thanks
colorwap posted on June 12, 2023 at 2:23 am
Great post, you have pointed out some good details , I too conceive this s a very wonderful website.
Cooe apk posted on June 12, 2023 at 2:41 am
Hello there. I needed to inquire some thing…is this a wordpress site as we are thinking about transferring across to WP. Moreover did you make this theme all by yourself? Cheers.
kids zinc posted on June 15, 2023 at 8:14 am
Hello! I simply wish to make a enormous thumbs up with the great info you’ve got here for this post. We are coming back to your site to get more detailed soon.
สรุปเกมสล็อตสุดฮิต posted on June 17, 2023 at 12:18 am
เกมสล็อตออนไลน์ที่จะเปลี่ยนให้คุณเป็นเศรษฐีเพียงชั่วข้ามคืน สรุปเกมสล็อตสุดฮิต เกมสล็อตออนไลน์น่าเล่น น่าลงทุนเป็นที่สุด แอดอยากขอนำเสนอเกมสล็อตออนไลน์สุดพรีเมียมที่เเจ๊คพอตเเตกง่าย เเตกหนัก ทำเงินได้อย่างง่ายดาย นอกจากนี้ยังมีผลตอบแทนสูงที่พร้อมมอบให้กับผู้เล่นตลอด 24 ชั่วโมง
AV posted on June 17, 2023 at 3:19 am
Thanks for sharing a great article.
You are providing wonderful information, it is very useful to us.
Keep posting like these informative articles.
Thank you.
라이브슬롯 posted on June 21, 2023 at 5:00 am
Your blog is amazing dude, i love to visit it everyday. very nice layout and content “
klangterapi posted on June 27, 2023 at 3:52 am
Thank you for yet another great informative article, I’m a loyal visitor to this blog and I can’t stress enough how much valuable tips I’ve learned from reading your content. I really appreciate all the hard work you put into this great site.
liquid vitamin b3 posted on June 27, 2023 at 4:09 am
I discovered your site web site on bing and check many of your early posts. Keep up the good operate. I simply additional encourage Rss to my MSN News Reader. Looking for forward to reading much more from you finding out later on!…
QQMEGA368 posted on July 2, 2023 at 5:07 am
Link slot gacor hari ini https://puttingontheritzonline.com/ juga menyediakan kemudahan bagi para anggotanya saat ingin melakukan deposit. Dengan deposit minimal sebesar 10 ribu rupiah saja, Anda dapat menikmati permainan slot gacor hari ini dan berbagai jenis judi online lainnya.
Metallizing gun posted on July 4, 2023 at 10:37 am
Are you concerned about environmental impact? Choose a metallizing gun that promotes sustainable practices. Reduce waste, optimize material usage, and contribute to a greener future.